Where to Grow a Duncan Grapefruit Tree

The “Duncan” grapefruit is America’s oldest known variety of the citrus fruit, and also one of the most well-known versions of grapefruit grown by home gardeners. While this variety’s fruit contains a great deal of seeds, the fruit are usually higher quality compared to most other seedless varieties. For the very best fruit production as well as also the healthiest, glossiest leaf, put a good foundation by picking the ideal place for your grapefruit. Several standards, ranging from sun exposure to distance conditions, will be able to help you decide where to grow your Duncan grapefruit tree.

USDA Plant Hardiness Zones

When Duncan trees have been subjected to warm days and warm nights, then the fruit glucose levels rise and acid is reduced, which results in tastier fruit. For the best results, grow Duncan grapefruit trees at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11.

Sun Exposure

Like most citrus trees, Duncan grapefruits love full sun. For optimum health, the planting site should receive a minimum of six hours of direct sun exposure daily, but eight hours of sun exposure is greatest. Gardeners should note where shadow fall throughout the day, within an area that gets full sun at the same point in the day may be shaded during other parts of the day and not be acceptable for a grapefruit tree. Oftentimes, a south-facing location offers the ideal sun and warmth exposure.

Soil Type

The type of soil at a backyard can differ dramatically from 1 end to another. While a Duncan grapefruit tree may tolerate most kinds of dirt, the tree will grow fastest and also be in its healthiest when planted in soil that is slightly acidic. Well-draining dirt is greatest, as grapefruit trees planted in poorly draining regions will likely endure for a little while but will grow slowly and not create as much fruit.

Space Requirements

Duncan grapefruit trees need adequate space around them to allow the tree to grow quickly and experience whole sun and proper air circulation. Bad spacing may stunt growth, provoke various citrus tree diseases or pest problems, and reduce fruit yield. For the very best results, a Duncan grapefruit tree ought to have about 20 feet of clearance around it that is free of other trees, utility poles or buildings.

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How to Prune a Nishiki Willow

“Hakuro-nishiki” willows provide far more beauty than pussy willows. Think pale leaf-flames of cream, pink and soft green in the springtime, stems barely pink turning brilliant red in the winter, and also a tousled contour moving toward fountain as it matures. The “Hakuro-nishiki” willow (Salix integra “Hakuro Nishiki”), also known as the dappled willow, lights along a sunny corner of your lawn. Dappled willows thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 though 9. Left unchecked, they grow into shrubs 6 feet tall and wide, but you can prune them back in winter.

Prune out all dead branches. These are normally a dark color and simple to recognize. To confirm a branch is dead, slice a thin strip of outer bark with a sharp knife. If the layer beneath is green, then the branch is alive. Cut back dead branches to the point of origin, either the main stem or the ground.

Eliminate genital or broken limbs. Cut out crossing or rubbing branches. Trim all cut branches back to a lateral branch using a diameter of twenty that of the cut branch.

Trim selected tall branches back to ground level each year if you would like a small, compact tree. This keeps the height of the tree and promotes new growth. To maintain the willow even shorter, crown-trim in July, taking off the top third of the branches. Make the cuts in lateral branches and prevent stubs.

Tip-trim that the willow regularly to permit the lush new growth to provide its variegated spring screen. Prune branch tips approximately 6 inches, which makes the cuts over a leaf bud or lateral branch.

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Flowering Strawberry Plants

Strawberries, among the absolute most commonly grown fruit in house gardens, all start their lives as fragile white blooms on plants. Proper growing states will encourage more blossoms and thus more fruit, but improper maintenance can significantly impact the following spring’s harvest. Whether your flowering strawberry crops are June-bearing or everbearing, providing the ideal combination of soil, water and sun will maintain top quality of the flowers and fruit.

Plant Forms

June-bearing strawberry crops initiate blossoms when days are short, and they produce a crop of fruit through a 2- to three-week period in the spring. Everbearing strawberries have three phases of flowers and fruit through spring, summer and fall, while day-neutral strawberries blossom and produce fruit throughout the growing season. There is a huge variety of cultivars in every kind of berry plant, but many gardeners choose to plant each of three to extend the growing season.


Flowers, or inflorescences, develop from terminal buds on the crown of the strawberry plant and also typically have five sepals and five white petals. Branch crowns, or smaller crowns that branch off from the primary crown, can have one or even two extra flower clusters on each. Poor light, low temperatures and too little water negatively affect the size and health of blossoms and later, the berries. With June-bearing strawberry crops, removing flowers as soon as they look the initial year will encourage runner and root development and a bigger crop the following year. With day-neutral and everbearing plants, remove blossoms through June and abandon the rest thereafter to place fruit for summer and fall harvesting.


The three procedures for planting flowering strawberries include the matted-row system with plants spaced 18 to 24 inches apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart, appropriate for June-bearing cultivars; the ribbon-row system, that limits the number of daughter plants and is more labor intensive, but yields more blooms, berry yields and fewer diseases; and the mountain system, where plants have been put around 1 foot apart in multiple rows and all runners are removed, that is acceptable for day-neutral and everbearing cultivars. Berry plants also grow well in containers.


Plant flowering strawberries as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring. The very best place for plants is a sunny place in well-drained, sandy, loam soil with a pH between 5.5 and 7.0. Approximately six weeks after planting and before flowering, apply 2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer for each 100 linear feet of rows, and also utilize another 2 pounds in early September. This will foster the growth and development of blossom and fruit buds. Note that fertilizer needs will vary by region; your county extension office will know the specific kind required for your area. All strawberry plants require about 1 inch of water each week, either by irrigation or rain, to encourage flower growth.


The time from blossom bloom to harvest will be different from 18 to 45 days depending on the form of strawberry plant, sunlight and temperatures. Pick berries, together with the caps on and 1/2 inch of stem attached, in the morning when it’s cool and plants are dry to assist prolong berry shelf life. Harvesting vegetables each other day can help boost high-quality. Store harvested berries in temperatures around 33 to 34 degrees Fahrenheit.

Pests and Disorders

Two of the most frequent diseases in flowering strawberry crops are verticillium wilt and botrytis fruit rot, which influences blossom petals, flower stalks, fruit caps and fruit. Insects such as the strawberry bud weevil, which partially severs stems, can also lead to the loss of blossoms. An all-purpose fruit spray may be implemented just as the first blossoms open and at full bloom. Additionally, avoid putting berries in soil where other strawberries, brambles or crops in the tomato family — including potatoes, peppers and eggplants — happen to be developed to prevent verticillium wilt contamination. Eliminate overripe and rotted berries to decrease insect and disease problems.

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Mango Tree Spray

The mango (Mangifera indica) is a tropical evergreen tree characterized by a wide, dense layer of leaves, fragrant flowers, and big, thick-skinned fruits that are treasured the world over for their aromatic, sweet taste. If properly cared for in the home garden, mature mango trees are generous with their fruits, bearing prolific amounts. A variety of kinds of mango tree sprays are available that work to help increase overall plant health and fruit yield, in addition to protect the tree from harmful bacterial diseases.

Nutritional Sprays

Mango trees growing in less than perfect soils, such as rocky, calcareous soils, could benefit greatly from an yearly foliar increase of nutrition. For the tree’s initial four to five decades, apply a pre-mixed foliar spray that contains vital nutrients such as zinc, copper, manganese, and boron (a nutrient that helps blossom and fruit production). Following the initial five decades or so, apply a spray that only contains zinc and manganese, with low levels of boron if needed. Trees grown in neutral or acidic dirt may benefit from nutritional sprays of copper and boron in an “as required” basis.

Organic Sprays

For those who prefer organic methods, seaweed tonic is just a mild choice that may be sprayed on mango trees to strengthen tree health, prevent pests and help inhibit diseases such as mildew and blight. There’s little risk of accidentally harming the tree from over-applying seaweed tonic. It may be made readily by putting raw cedar in a bucket of rainwater with a loose lid and leaving it for 2 weeks to a year. After at least three weeks, then pour the seaweed water to a spray can and implement to the leaves.

Fungicide Sprays

Mango trees are notoriously susceptible to powdery mildew and anthracnose, fungal pathogens that wreak havoc on new flowers and fruits. If applied before infection sets in, fungicide sprays may be effective at preventing fungicide. Fungicide will not work if applied after the fungus is present. The fungicide should include copper and sulfur, and also be applied twice to young panicles: the very first time, once the panicles are all about half-mature, and 10 to 21 days later.

Flower-Inducing Sprays

Chemical flower-inducing sprays may be used to encourage higher fruit yields. Fruits are often bigger when the tree is sprayed with flower-inducing sprays. Select a spray that includes potassium nitrate, which gives the tree its required dosage of potassium, or a spray that includes potassium nitrate. Flower-inducing sprays shouldn’t be used on trees that are unhealthy or under ten years old. As with other sprays, it’s rendered ineffective if applied during rainy weather.

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The way to Use a Golf Cart for Yard Work

Golf carts can effect a laborious task like gardening much easier because you can use the cart to lug gardening equipment, plants and tools back and forth. While garden carts and wheelbarrows make transporting substances much simpler, you must still exert the power to lift, thrust and balance the cart or wheelbarrow. A golf cart works best for gardening if you’ve got a freight area or rear seating row. Golf carts are much more compact compared to trucks, allowing you to move around your property without damaging the terrain.

Stack bagged mulch, gravel, compost or potting soil in the rear of the golf cart and use the cart to lug the bags to the desired location. In case you’ve got a compost pile, you can bend a plastic bin to the golf cart and use the bin to take bulk compost.

Toss weeds into the rear of the golf cart as you tend your flower beds if you’ve got a cargo area rather than rear seating. When the cart is full, you can transport the weeds to some compost pile or trash can.

Strap 5-gallon buckets to the rear seats with elastic cords or nylon straps. Fill the buckets with gravel, manure or garden refuse and transport them across the lawn.

Rake leaves or grass clippings on a tarp. Tie the tarp to the golf cart with soft twine and tow the leaves or grass throughout the yard or to a compost pile.

Secure a string to small fallen trees and protected the other end to your sturdy bar or tow hitch, if available. Slowly drive forward in the golf cart to pull on the tree where needed. You can use the exact same strategy to transfer tiny stumps and stones, but you must cease if you notice any strain on the golf cart.

Install a trailer hitch to the rear of the golf cart, using a trailer hitch assembly kit that comprises the hitch, receiver hitch, pins and all necessary mounting hardware. Together with the trailer hitch installed, you can attach a small utility trailer to the golf cart so you can haul more material at one time. It also cuts down on rugged wear so you don’t hurt the golf cart.

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Mounting Ceiling Fans on a Sloped Ceiling

Most ceiling fan kits are designed for mounting to your braced junction box on a level ceiling. Fortunately, some companies sell modification kits for mounting ceiling fans on a sloped ceiling. The mounting bracket in the junction box for these instances is usually a ball-and-socket-style swivel mount, allowing the fan to be set up on anywhere from a flat to a 12/12 pitched (45-degree) ceiling. The fan will also need to be fitted using a downrod to provide the blades clearance so they don’t strike the ceiling.

Switch off the breaker to the electrical circuit to the junction box and then switch to which the fan is going to be connected. Eliminate the filter area covering the switch using a screwdriver, and place the tip of a noncontact electrical ripped contrary to the wires around the side of the switch. If the light in the tester turns on, then there’s power in the circuit. Turn off more breakers or the main move to the home and recheck until the tester verifies that the power is off. Reinstall the switch plate.

Expand a stepladder and get rid of the fixture on the junction box in the ground if one is set. Then loosen the screws holding the junction box to the ceiling and then pull the box out of the hole. When there’s no supporting brace in the ceiling capable of holding a ceiling fan, position a fan brace between the joists over the hole, and tighten the brace with an adjustable canopy. Insert the electrical cable to the cable clamp, then place the junction box mounting bracket above the brace and then mount the box by tightening the two locking nuts to the brace using a 1/4-inch nut driver. Tighten the screw on the cable clamp to hold the electrical cable set up.

Eliminate the outer sheathing of the electrical cable using a utility knife, then strip 1/2-inch of insulating material in the ends of the electrical wires in the box.

Install the ball from a ceiling fan threaded bracket to the end of a downrod of the correct length to your ceiling’s toss and blade width (see Resources). Insert the end of the downrod through the ceiling fan’s canopy, then insert the wires in the ceiling fan through the downrod and secure the downrod to the fan engine. Slide the downrod pin through the mounting hole and then secure the downrod pin with a cotter pin. Then tighten the setscrews and locknuts to hold the downrod to the fan engine.

Mount the hanger bracket to the junction box using the fan brace screws. Then lift the fan engine and downrod to the junction box, and slide the ball of this downrod to the socket of this hanger bracket.

Connect the white wire from the ceiling fan to the white cable from the junction box using a wire nut. When there’s a red cable present in the junction box, connect it to the blue wire in the ceiling fan. When there’s no red wire in the junction box, twist the black and blue ceiling fan wires together, then connect the 2 to the black wire in the junction box using a wire nut. Lastly, connect the green wire of this ceiling fan to the bare wire from the junction box. Gently tuck the wires to the junction box over the bracket.

Slide up the canopy the downrod and attach it to the mounting bracket using the four screws included with the fan.

Attach each fan blade to your knife bracket using three blade mounting screws, then attach each blade to the fan motor using two motor mount screws.

Attach the light kit to the base of the lover, if one was included. Connect the blue wire from the fan to the black wire of this light kit using a wire nut, then connect the wires in comparable fashion. Tighten the mounting screws to secure the light kit to the fan before installing the globes and light bulbs.

Turn on the circuit breaker and then analyze the ceiling fan using the light switch.

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The way to Excavate High Areas in a Yard

Possessing an uneven yard can interfere with landscaping plans. High spots often cause problems while mowing the grass and may have a negative impact on drainage as well. Eliminating high spots requires a redistribution of the soil that makes them up, but care must be taken so that you don’t bury the nutrient-rich topsoil that your grass and other plants will grow best in. You can also use this as an chance to incorporate organic material to your topsoil or boost your soil drainage.

Eliminate the grass in the high spot and surrounding regions with a shovel or other implements. Dig out the topsoil layer, removing up to 6 to 8 inches of soil and putting it in a stack for later use.

Till the exposed dirt to a depth of 6 inches. Remove any bits of plants, plants and rocks larger than one inch in diameter that you encounter while tilling.

Rake the soil having a heavy rake to smooth it and match the caliber of the backyard. Roll the dirt having a lawn roller to better identify uneven areas, raking or tilling them more as essential.

Cover the tilled and leveled area with the topsoil that you previously eliminated, raking the soil again to spread the topsoil evenly over the region.

Sow grass seed over the ground or lay sod to cover the bare dirt.

Run your yard roller above the ground again, pushing the seeds to the dirt or settling the sod over the newly leveled area.

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Boric Powder for a Black Ant Infestation from the Yard

Boric acid comes from the form of an absorbent, absorbent white powder that looks like powdered sugar. Combined with water and added to candy bait, it is a slow-acting way of killing ants that is much less toxic than chemical pesticides. It functions both in the digestive tracts of ants and also by absorbing the exterior wax that shields them from drying out.

Black Ant Types

Black carpenter ants (Camponotus pennsylvanicus) typically nest in stumps and fences (See Reference 1). Black carpenter worker ants have been from 1/4 to 1/2 inch long and do not work in trails as they search of food. They bite but do not sting. Little black ants (Monomorium minimum), about 1/16 inch shiny and long, live in rotten wood and beneath objects. They follow trails as they forage for food. They do not bite or sting. Both kinds of ants such as sweet baits such as peanut butter or jelly.

Scouting Black Ant Colonies

Attempting to kill ants using boric acid when they’re foraging away from their colony isn’t efficient. You can kill some ants this way, but never eliminate their nest. To locate their colony, sprinkle sweet food and adhere to the ants as they go home. As soon as you have discovered their colony, you can put your boric acid bait where it will be most effective.

Boric Acid Bait Formulas

Texas A&M; University’s AgriLife Extension recommends 1 portion of boric acid powder to 100 parts of peanut butter, jelly or other sweet lure. Montana Integrated Pest Management Center suggests combining 1 1/4 cup of boric acid powder to 1/2 cup jelly, peanut butter or other sweet that may attract ants. Another formulation is 3/4 teaspoon of boric acid powder added to 4 tablespoons of peanut butter and 6 ounces of honey. Stronger formulations do not kill ants more efficiency and might dissuade them from eating the bait.

Baiting Tactics

One approach is to take small quantities of bait on pieces aluminum foil or about bottle caps and put them in different areas where you see ants foraging for food, preferably close to a colony. You can also use a squeeze bottle with appointed tip to dump the lure into 2-inch-long parts of soda straws. Another way is to set the lure in a jar, screw the lid back and punch holes in it just large enough for the ants get in and out. Seal the lid with tape and set the jar on its side so the ants can discover the holes. Should you discover dead ants round the jar, then reduce the amount of boric acid from the lure. Should you still find ants following a week to ten days, add more boric acid.

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