Category: Home Painting

You may enjoy your pillow-top mattress for the cozy sleep it provides, but only if it retains its fluffiness. Since you spend about one-quarter of your life in bed, a well-maintained mattress which is suitable for your body type and promotes restful sleep without morning distress or stiffness is a must. The pillow top’s additional layer of cotton, wool or foam can settle because of a number of factors, such as quality of the substances along with your body weight or simply from regular usage.

Vacuum It

A pillow-top mattress cover is not airtight. After removing all of the bedding, vacuum the mattress to clean it, but also to lift or redistribute the very best cotton or foam innards — just as a vacuum’s suction lifts medium or long-pile carpeting. At the least, vacuuming a mattress removes skin cells along with also the dust mites they attract. By vacuuming the mattress, you won’t make as much”dust” during additional re-fluffing.

Hang It

Gravity is in your mattresses’s side — when you hang it upside-down. Have a removable pillow top off the bed and drape it over a railing or other sturdy outdoor structure. Use a few sawhorses to help support an entire upside-down pillow-top mattress and let gravity takes its path for at least a day. Give the mattress a gentle beating whenever it’s hanging.

Beat It

While your mattress or removed pillow top is suspended upside-down outdoors, whack it on both sides with a rounded broom handle or another long, smooth, blunt object. This may loosen dust and encourage re-fluffing. Wearing a dust mask reduces the quantity of dust and particulates which could irritate and enter your lungs.

Rotate It

Unlike conventional mattresses, you won’t flip a pillow-top mattress with cushioning on only one side, however you can, and should, rotate it. Rotating the mattress, so the foot is at the heat and vice versa, won’t actually”fluff” the cushioning, but it is going to limit how often you need to fluff the pillow top. Flip a two-sided pillow-top mattress annually or every other season if the padding hastens quickly.

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As the temperatures outside spikes, cooking inside, with all the warmth it can create, becomes less and less attractive. 1 solution is to fire up your barbecue; but if your barbecue did not weather the seasons well, you might find that the grill grate has rusted. Cleaning the grate requires just a couple of steps, so you’ll be able to securely enjoy delicious food in no time.

Remove the grate from your barbecue grill.

Scrape the grate with a medium-grit abrasive to eliminate big areas of rust.

Sand the grate with a fine-grit abrasive to remove smaller pieces of rust and also to polish the grate.

Clean the grate with water and soap to get rid of any excess rust, food or other contaminants. Dry the grate immediately.

Oil the grate with food-safe oil, like canola or vegetable shortening, the moment the grate is tender. Use a light layer of oil on a cloth or paper towel, and rub it across the whole grill grate, focusing particularly on the surface where the meals will rest.

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The best time to remove paint from a floor is when it’s still moist; once the paint has dried, then you’ve got to either scrape it or dissolve it with a solvent. Oil-based paint is far more difficult to remove than latex as it’s harder, and the solvents that dissolve it can damage the floor finish. Whether the paint is water- or oil-based, it’s best to try other removal methods before you resort to solvents.

Scrape Hardened Paint

Paint that has not completely cured is usually soft enough to scrape off the floor. A stiff plastic putty knife is your best tool to use for your own job; you can tap it with a hammer to break up hardened paint with no fear of damaging the floor finish. If the paint has settled to the gap between a set of boards, use a pull scraper to gently remove it in the side of each plank. You can also utilize the corner of this pull scraper to remove paint from wood grain depressions.

Insert Some Heat

Some kinds of paint, like striped gloss tooth, heal to such a tricky consistency you may have trouble removing them with a plastic scraper. Instead of graduating into your knife, which may scratch the end, try warming the paint with a hair dryer. Put the dryer on maximum heat and wait about 3 inches in the paint to get 10 to 20 seconds. After removing the heat, then you’ll probably find that the scrapes away more readily. Avoid more powerful sources of heat, like heat guns; they can damage the finish.

Rub with a Solvent

Another way to get paint out of crevices is to rub it with a solvent, provided that you use the appropriate one. Latex paint remover is the ideal solvent for removing latex paint, but it won’t work on oil-based paint. Several solvents will remove oil-based paint, however, mineral spirits is the strongest one you can safely use on hardwood, and you should use it sparingly. Dampen a rag, dab the floor and touch the end. If the feels fragile, stop using the arc and downgrade to rubbing alcohol, which will most likely be effective with some elbow grease.

Extreme Steps

Thin splotches of paint that have melded with the end inside the grain are the toughest to remove, and you may be unable to perform it without scraping off a few finish. If it comes to this, the very best way to remove the end is to utilize a pull scraper, running it along the grain to remove a thin layer. After all the paint is gone, spread a touch-up layer of finish over the affected area with a rag or paintbrush. If you scraped carefully enough to avoid exposing the timber, the fix won’t be noticeable when the finish dries.

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If you have ever bought a used item or dealt with children, you are going to encounter a couple decals stuck where they do not belong. At times, stickers are quite difficult to remove, particularly if they’ve been in position for a while. Household liquids remove stickers in some cases, while at others, heat does the trick. Commercial citrus-based removers also come in handy to remove that last piece of deposits.

Heat Treatment

A hair dryer helps release the adhesive from some types of stickers, such as bumper stickers from a vehicle or stickers to a dresser. If you are dealing with a large sticker, first heat the middle of this sticker, holding the hair dryer set on hot very close to the sticker. Heating the edges last, then slip a thin razor blade or putty knife under one of the advantages once you’ve pulled an advantage. If the surface you are dealing with may be scratched, use a plastic credit card in place of steel. Pull the sticker with one hand while pushing the blade or card under the sticker to publish it. This method may require reheating the sticker if the sticker doesn’t readily come off.

Sharp Decision

A razor blade, craft knife or utility knife remove stickers from pretty much any surface but are best used when dealing with a material under, such as glass, that won’t scratch when scraped with a sword. To remove a sticker this manner, slide a sword under one edge, holding the sword at an angle so it fits completely under the sticker. Shove the blade in short bursts, lifting more of this sticker with each push. If a number of this deposits remains, use the blade or a fingernail to scrape it off. Softening it with a little water in this stage might help.

Vanishing With Vinegar

White vinegar removes stickers from several surfaces such as plastic, glass, metal or wood. Soak a paper towel in vinegar and then break it over the sticker for a couple of minutes or till the sticker has absorbed some of the vinegar. Rub away the sticker with your finger along with a dry paper towel.

Goodbye, Goop

A natural, commercial goop-removing cleaner removes stickers from almost any substance but might cause a slightly oily place on items such as paper or cardboard. Squirt a small quantity of the substance over the sticker; a bit goes a very long way. Pull away the sticker with your fingers after a couple of minutes, then wipe the cleaner off the item. Examine the substance on an inconspicuous area or browse the manufacturer’s label before applying to guarantee the cleaner will not damage the item under the sticker.

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Not only do dirty drapes detract from the beauty of a room, they also result in a potential increase in airborne allergens. If your windows are adorned with large customized drapes, you may be intimidated to attempt to wash them. If left untreated, however, curtain fabric can turn irreversibly dingy while also triggering asthma and allergies.

Ditch the Dirt

If you have ever opened your own drapes and discovered yourself consumed by a cloud of dust, then you know just how much debris a set of drapes can gather. The very first step in maintaining your large custom drapes clean is regular dusting or vacuuming. An assortment of cleaning implements — by a feather duster into a vacuum cleaner’s suction attachment — may also be used to remove dirt from drapes. Work from the top down so anything which falls can be cleaned later, and make sure you take care of either side. Check in the folds and hems where hidden debris accumulates and wipe down dusty windows and windowsills.

Steam It Out

While dusting ought to be carried out weekly, steam cleaning may be done on a less frequent schedule or as needed. Based on your budget, purchase an inexpensive handheld steam cleaner or even rent one. Before beginning the procedure, consult the manufacturer’s label to be sure that you wo not hurt the drapes with this method. Make sure you follow the manufacturer’s directions about the amount of water to add and heating time, as it fluctuates depending on unit. When the steam cleaner is ready to go, begin with the back of the curtain and then work from top to bottom, holding the steamer 2 to 3 inches in the fabric. When you finish the back side of the curtain, then repeat the procedure on the front. Following a 15-minute drying interval, you can determine whether you need another round of steaming or place cleaning.

Machine Clean

Even large customized drapes can fit inside super-sized washing machines, although you may need to wash them one or two at a time based on the capacity of the unit. Machine washing drapes is a snap but some techniques are more effective than others. Again, read the manufacturer’s label to make sure the drapes are machine washable. Always use the delicate cycle as fabric can deteriorate when exposed to sunlight. Cold water is ideal to minimize fading and shrinking, although heavily soiled fabrics may require a warm atmosphere. Look for a detergent formulated for maintaining color as sun-exposed fabrics especially are vulnerable to fading.

Clean and Quick

Most people underestimate the cumulative impact of the sun’s beams on fabric. Curtains are household workhorses and can have short life spans if not treated with adequate caution. Simply clean drapes when it is absolutely crucial. If dusting does not do the trick but a complete washing is not to be able, use a lint brush to slough away embedded dirt or execute a quick spot clean using a moist cloth. A tag which reads, “Dry Clean Only” needs to be honored. All dry cleaners aren’t created equally, though, so check to see if your neighborhood dry cleaner comes with expertise working with large customized drapes.

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Sanding and staining are significant steps in achieving a professional finish on a hardwood dresser. Sanding smooths the wood grain during the prep stage and removes dust throughout the finishing stage. The correct application of stain provides rich tones that improve the dresser’s natural beauty. While none of these tasks requires specific skills, they are time-consuming and require attention to detail for the ideal outcome. Remove all the old finish about an present dresser before beginning.

Prep Sanding

Remove dresser drawers and put each one on end, on a drop cloth, together with the drawer front facing upwards. In case the drawers came with installed pulls, remove them using a screwdriver. Put on goggles and a respirator mask before sanding.

Start sanding using 80-grit sandpaper or a sanding block, using smooth and even strokes and sanding in the exact same way as the wood grain. Unfinished dressers include presanded, but this is nevertheless an important measure to eliminate scratches or blemishes and to smooth wood grain which may have enlarged due to moisture. Run your fingers over the wood as you mud to make certain all roughness is eliminated.

Switch to your finer, 160-grit sandpaper or sanding block to provide a very smooth surface before applying stain. While there certainly are finer-grit sandpapers, 160-grit is adequate. Should you use a very fine grit, you risk polishing the wood surface, which can hinder stain absorption.

Applying Stain

Brush off sanding dust using a brush, or vacuum it away and crack a window before rinsing. Solvent fumes in wood stain can leave you feeling a little dizzy if you apply the stain in a closed room. Wear rubber gloves.

Brush on a thin but also coat of wood stain using a new paintbrush or utilize a stain applicator pad. The caveat when applying stain would be to function from the surface of the dresser down and also to restrict staining to a part at a time. For instance, do the dresser top first, then 1 side, then another side, then the front. Stain every single drawer face entirely.

Allow the wood stain soak in a few minutes or till the wood reaches the desired shade and then wipe it off completely using soft, absorbent rags. Pay special attention to details and crevices in the wood. If any stain remains on the wood, it can impact the dresser’s finish coat.

Final Sanding and Finishing

Allow the wood dry completely before lightly sanding with 220-grit sandpaper. Staining causes the wood fibers to swell slightly. Use a light touch to keep from sanding off any of this color.

Wipe down the dresser and drawer fronts with tack cloth before apply a light coat of wood finish and let it dry.

Sand the dresser involving every finish coat to eliminate pieces of dust which may adhere to the finish before it’s completely dry. Use 400-grit silicon carbide sandpaper and a very light touch. This is more of a polishing measure than anything else.

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The sofa can be one of the very expensive — and many used — pieces of furniture in the home and by properly caring for one with woven-fabric, you can stretch the furnishing’s life and maybe even maintain in seeking good as new for many decades. But the care routine does not cease with an occasional scrubbing. There are other important — and simple to implement — things that you can do to ensure that the sun, your pets and the occasional spilled beverage does not turn a prized possession into a dumpster-bound disaster.

Vacuum the sofa weekly to remove dirt that can get embedded in the cloth and break down its fibers. Use the vacuum cleaner’s upholstery attachment to the sofa’s surface area. Use the crevice tool to achieve between the seating base along with the arms and rear. Never use the wand’s metal edge to scrub the cloth; the roughness can tear, damage or wear from the cloth.

Flip the cushions every week to ensure even wear of the material and even compression of the inner foam, if they are not connected to the couch body and therefore are faced with upholstery fabric on either side.

Layer sheers beneath your window treatments to decrease direct sunlight, which can fade cloths. Close your drapes during the day to totally block out the sun, while no one is at home.

Provide a cat-nip-scented scratching post for your cat to deter your pet from sharpening its claws on the sofa’s cloth.

Blot up spills immediately, using a dry, white rag. Work from the outer edge of the spill into the center to prevent spreading the stain, until the spill feels nearly dry to the touch. Wash the rag and use it to wipe the spill area working from the outer surface toward the center, using a mild detergent, like a little dish soap mixed with warm water. Wash the soapy area with a clean, damp rag and very clear water. After the washed area dissolves gently sweep the cloth with a nonmetallic brush, like a nailbrush or scrub brush to lift the fibers.

Hire a professional upholstery service annually to give the sofa a comprehensive cleaning.

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If your dishes have developed reddish-brown iron stains, it’s often because you left water standing in them. It takes time for the mineral which produces the color — iron oxide, or rust — to settles from the water. The iron can come form your water source or from corroded steel pipes, and also after the stains kind, they do not come away easily. They will come off, though, with the ideal family products.

Get Them Early

The best approach to manage iron stains is to prevent their occurrence by washing your own dishes frequently. If you do that, any stains which have started developing come off readily with dish detergent and a bit of scrubbing. Even in the event that you forget to do the dishes and leave them standing for a day or two, you can typically get iron stains away without resorting to chemical intervention, presuming that you don’t expose the stain to your household cleaner that contains bleach. Bleach sets iron stains and makes them difficult to eliminate.

Household Stain Removers

The best way to handle mineral stains — including iron stains — on ceramic and glass will be to dissolve them with acid. Two common household acids, vinegar and lemon juice, function well, but not as quickly as a commercial cleaning product which contains a more powerful acid, like muriatic acid. The secret to success with slow-acting acids will be to keep them in touch with the stain for many hours. That’s easy to accomplish if the stain is within a container. Maintaining the acid in touch with the stain is a bit more challenging if the stain was left on the exterior of a bowl, plate or cup by your dishwasher.

Removing Stains by Hand

Removing iron stains from within a container is simple — just fill the container using lemon juice or white vinegar, making sure the fluid completely covers the stain, and await. Empty the container when the stain is gone. To remove stains from the exterior of a dish or cup, create a paste with borax and lemon juice or vinegar and then spread it liberally on the stain. Scrub the stain when the glue dries out, and in the event that you can still see discoloration, then repeat the procedure. You may also remove rust stains in the exterior of a dish or cup using spray lubricant and scrubbing, however, that isn’t recommended for removing it from inside.

Removing Stains from the Dishwasher

If you frequently wash your dishes in the fridge, and they’ve rust stains, you’ll probably also notice discoloration on the inside of the fridge. You may treat all the stains in precisely the same time by filling the fridge’s detergent dispenser with citric acid crystals, putting all the stained dishes inside and running the fridge through a cycle. Repeat if needed. As a supplement or alternative, put a bowl of vinegar in the bottom of the fridge when you run it during its cycle with all the stained dishes in it. If rust stains are a continual problem, the only effective way to stop them is to set up a filter in your own water source.

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While ink may be hardly noticeable on a espresso colored leather sofa, it stands out from across the room on light leather. Improper cleaning may smear the ink, making the stain even worse. Treating the ink stain on your cream colored sofa may call for several different techniques to eliminate the stain entirely. Begin with the gentlest techniques first to safeguard the leather’s good looks.

Fresh-Stain Treatment

If marker or ballpoint pen ink is so fresh it hasn’t had an opportunity to set in, dab it gently with a paper towel or white cloth without rubbing. Check the towel or cloth to find out if any of this ink has moved onto it; when it has, rotate to a fresh area of towel or cloth to prevent spreading the needle. Continue dabbing until no more ink comes up. Blot the remaining needle using a cloth or sponge dipped in warm, soapy water then, wringing out the majority of the water prior to applying it to the leather. Wipe from the management of this ink, moving from 1 aspect of the ink place to another, instead of rubbing in circles or round the needle, which may spread the stain. Blot the area dry with a dry paper towel or white cloth.

Alcohol: Ink Lifter

Rubbing alcohol removes ballpoint pen and marker ink from leather. Test the alcohol to an inconspicuous area first by wetting a cotton ball or folded piece of white paper towel with the alcohol and leaving it on the leather for several minutes; wait several more minutes following its removal to ensure it wo not affect the leather. Blot the ink stain with an alcohol-soaked cotton swab, wiping in the direction of this ink and replacing the swab often with a fresh one to prevent spreading the needle. For big ink marks, use a cotton ball or white paper towel. Apply a leather conditioner after cleaning to protect the leather.

Toothpaste Treatment

If a number of the ink remains after you wash it with rubbing alcohol, then apply a thin layer of a white non-gel toothpaste above the place, rubbing gently from the management of the ink line with a soft, damp cloth wrapped around your finger. Keep on buffing until the ink comes up, and then wipe the toothpaste away with a fresh damp cloth. Wipe the area down with rubbing alcohol subsequently when a slightly inky residue remains. Apply a leather conditioner after cleaning to help keep the leather in good shape.

Dedicated Leather Cleaners

If home remedies do not work, decide on a leather cleaning kit which contains an ink-removing solution. Wash the leather first with the leather cleaner included in the kit, and then apply the ink remover with a cotton swab, after the direction of the ink mark. Remove extra ink residue by rubbing the ink remover above the surrounding area with a sponge or soft cloth, and wash out the area once again with the standard leather cleaner.

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It is possible to purchase filler to patch your hardwood flooring scratches — but you do not need it. It is a last resort for scratches that expose timber or the core of floors. You can manage scrapes with wax stain or a flooring complete recovery product.

Little Nicks and Gouges

A number of small scratches must be anticipated on your flooring, but when they’ve become enough to become bothersome, you may make them vanish by coating them. Because wax will collect dirt and darken, you are going to have to take out the wax occasionally and reapply it. Another means to take care of scratches would be to coat the floor with an end restoration product. This type of product does not need sanding, but the flooring does need a thorough cleaning before it is used by you. You may occasionally simply restain scratches that expose wood and dab on clean finish.

Deeper, Wider Scratches

When nothing but a floor filler is going to do, choose a latex flooring filling product that matches the colour of your flooring. It is uncommon for the colour to be an specific match and you may have to use a stain. You can create a repair that is smooth without sanding by just wiping off excess filler. It is best to cover the filler with one or two coats of clear finish.

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