The way to Give Paneling a Drywall Look

The effect of wood paneling on space air can be hard to ignore, and the dark wood tomes don’t fit with every design motif. In case a remodeling job has brought you to the stage of either removing the paneling or covering it with drywall, it may be relaxing to know that you don’t need to do. All you need to do in order to produce the paneling resemble drywall would be to skim-coat it using joint compound. While skim-coating can be tricky to do correctly, it is easier than the choices, and you don’t need to employ a professional to do it.

Inspect the paneling for loose borders or warping, and fasten loose sections securely to the studs using ring-shank nails. Sink all nail heads with a hammer and nail set.

Wash the paneling using a mix of 1/2 cup of trisodium phosphate detergent per gallon of warm water. This mixture not only cleans dirt and grease in the paneling, but it etches the end. Let the paneling dry, then scuff the surface together with 150-grit sandpaper to etch it even more.

Paint the paneling with a coat of interior latex or shellac-based wood tip. Apply the primer with a medium nap roller and paintbrush.

Tape the seams between panels using drywall tape in exactly the same manner you would tape routine seams seams. Spread a layer of joint compound along the flux using a 4-inch drywall knife, lay moistened drywall tape and scrape it flat with the knife. Immediately topcoat it with another layer of joint compound and scrape the chemical flat.

Let the taped seams dry, then topcoat with one or 2 more layers of joint compound. Scrape with a 6- to 8-inch blade, feathering the edges into the wall to make flat seams.

Skim-coat by spreading a thin layer of joint compound over the entire wall using an 8-inch drywall knife. Start in one of the best corners, applying hardened all-purpose joint compound on the wall using a paint roller or drywall knife and scraping the knife along the grain of the timber to flatten the mud. The layer shouldn’t be any thicker than about 1/8 inch.

Wait for the first skim coat to dry, then sand it with a pole sander and 120-grit sandpaper. Wipe off the sanding dust using a rag and, even if you can still see wood grain or tape seams, apply a second coat. Sand that coat when it dries and wipe off the sanding dust. Repeat a third time, if needed.

Apply a coat of PVA — or drywall — primer to the wall using a medium-nap roller and paintbrush. Let the primer dry, then paint the wall or hang wallpaper, as desirable.

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The way to Use Gel Stain on Unfinished Oak Furniture

Gel stain, an oil-based choice to fluid wood stain, contains enough urethane you don’t need to employ a top coat, though you can if you would like to have more protection and higher shine. Thicker than fluid stains, gel stains provide immediate gratification to those who prefer to utilize wipe-on colour on bare oak furniture. They are also less cluttered, since they don’t drip like fluid stains, plus they provide a more shade, since they don’t run.

Remove any drawers in the furniture and unscrew the knobs from the drawers. Set the knobs and screws aside.

Put on a dust mask and mud the oak furniture using 180-grit sandpaper, followed by 220-grit sandpaper to open the pores of the oak and allow it to take the gel stain evenly.

Blow the sawdust off using a hair dryer, vacuum cleaner or can of compressed air. Vacuum sawdust off the floor.

Apply a coat of wood conditioner to the full surface of the furniture using a white cotton fabric or foam brush. Allow it to dry for 15 minutes and apply another coat. Allow the second coat to dry for 2 hours.

Stir the gel stain thoroughly using a paint stirrer to mix.

Put on a set of rubber gloves and dip a cotton rag to the gel stain.

Wipe the stain over the surface of the furniture, working in the direction of the grain. If the stain is thicker than you want, wipe off the extra with another white cotton fabric.

Keep changing wiping cloths until all the excess stain has been absorbed, to prevent seeing streaks and darker regions. Use an old dry paintbrush to get excess stain out of crevices.

Allow the stain to dry for eight to ten hours. Apply two layers, letting the second to dry for eight to ten hours and the previous coat to dry overnight.

Sand the furniture quietly using 600-grit sandpaper or 0000 steel wool. Blow Off the sawdust as you did in Step 3.

Employ one more coat of gel stain if you would like the timber to be darker. Allow this coat to dry overnight.

Employ a polyurethane top coat using a sponge brush if desired to give the furniture more protection and shine. Allow the top coat to dry overnight before replacing the drawers and knobs and using the furniture.

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Cellulose Insulation & Water Damage

Blow-in cellulose insulation is manufactured from recycled newspaper and treated with borate to leave it fireproof and insect-proof. It’s not watertight, but this’s usually not a problem unless the roof flows, a pipe bursts behind a wall or a levee is breached during flood season. Once cellulose insulation has been thoroughly soaked it becomes a problem in urgent need of a solution.

Cellulose Insulation and Moisture

Cellulose insulation is frequently installed damp, and its insulating properties have been undamaged by routine seasonal humidity. When cellulose insulation becomes inundated with water, nevertheless, it’s likely to sag and settle, leaving sections of the ceiling or wall cavity unevenly filled. Once that happens, the cellulose won’t function as an effective insulating substance.

Cellulose Insulation and Damage

Thanks to its borate therapy, mold won’t form on cellulose insulation. But mould will form on timber studs and drywall in contact with moist cellulose. That is why it’s urgent to eliminate water-soaked cellulose and replace it with new insulation.

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How to Refinish an Antique Metal Headboard

Time, dirt, humidity and rust all take their toll on a vintage steel headboard, even if it’s been properly stored. Unless it is falling apart from rust, however, the headboard can be solved to appear as good as it did on the day it was made. The work is well worth it to provide an antique treasure fresh life.

Rust

Rust is your headboard’s largest enemy and will need to be completely removed before refinishing or it’s going to continue to eat away in the bed. Light surface rust can be removed with sandpaper or steel wool. Use a steel brush to take off big flakes of rust if required before sanding. For heavily rusted pieces, a chemical rust remover can speed up the procedure. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully since fluid rust removers typically contain some form of acid.

Old Paint

If the metal headboard was previously painted, then the old paint will need to be stripped off unless it’s in very excellent condition with no flakes or chips. Old paint can be removed by sanding or by using a chemical paint stripper. Ensure the surface of the headboard is smooth and nice after the paint is removed. Any hanging chips of paint will show through the last finish. Begin with a coarse sandpaper, like 80 grit, and use it to remove the vast majority of the paint. After the paint is nearly off, switch to your fine-grit paper, like 200.

Preparation

Following any rust or old paint is removed, sand the entire frame using a fine-grit sandpaper to even the surface and give the paint a roughened area to grasp. Give the entire headboard a good cleaning with mild detergent which does not contain any abrasives or bleach, such as liquid laundry or dish soap. Dilute the detergent with water in a spray bottle, and use it to eliminate any remaining dust from sanding. Wipe it dry using a lint-free rag.

Painting

Paint can be sprayed or brushed on to finish the metal headboard. Utilize an oil-based paint for brushing and place the headboard erect, flattening it between two boxes or heavy objects to keep it in place. Work in sections, employing several thin coats of paint to prevent drips and brush marks. Paint labeled for steel which includes a rust inhibitor works best for spraying the headboard. Shake the can well, and apply the paint in long even strokes. Keep a brush to catch any drips. Apply at least two coats of paint whether spraying or brushing.

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