Category: Furnishings

In case you have a peeling coating on almost any dining table, odds are it’s veneer. Strong wood will not peel. It cracks or splits. Immediate water vulnerability or perhaps condensed moisture may cause veneered timber on any table to peel or twist if the surface coating has been compromised or simply worn off. When a table gets to this point you can bring it back to a suitable condition by using resin adhesive. This sort of adhesive dries hard and can be colored to look like wood. Use maple-colored adhesive for a natural look, or walnut paste if you want to blot the table.

Sand the surface of the table by hand using a hand block with 100-grit sandpaper. Sand parallel to the grain just. Sand off all the loose fibers which are curled up or separated from the surface of the table.

Spray air across the table with a air compressor equipped with a air nozzle to remove any chips, debris or loose fibers that may have worked themselves below the veneer. In case a number of them are stubborn and wont come out, use the suggestion of a putty knife to gently scrape them out.

Mix the powdered resin paste with water per manufacturer’s instructions. Dip the tip of a putty knife to the adhesive. Add the moist putty knife under any loose pieces of the veneer and allow the paste to scratch off under it. Stretch a piece of masking tape tight across the loose area and press down hard to secure the loose slice. It’s OK if the adhesive oozes out.

Dip the knife to the paste and use it like a small trowel to fill larger areas where splinters are missing or there are cracks or splits. When you’ve filled and taped down all the loose spots, allow the adhesive to dry for 24 hours.

Eliminate all the tape. Sand the surface of the table by hand with a hand block and 100-grit sandpaper until smooth, sanding parallel to the grain just. Blow air across the table with the air nozzle to remove any debris or chips.

Dip the putty knife into a open can of timber coin. Fill all the fine cracks, small holes or any other small pits or defects which you might have missed with all the resin adhesive. Sand the table lightly with the hands cube and 100-grit sandpaper. Sand it parallel with the grain with 180-grit sandpaper on the hand cube.

Spray air across the table with an air nozzle till free and clean of any dust. Fill a one-quart pressurized spray gun with lacquer. Hold the gun 8 inches from the surface of the table at a 30-degree angle. Spray overlapping bands of lacquer till the table is wet. Permit the lacquer to dry for 30 minutes.

Sand the table gently, parallel to the grain, by hand with a hand block using 180-grit sandpaper. The sanding will produce a fine, white powder. Do not wipe off the powder. This can be lacquer dust which will aid in curing the next coat.

Spray the table just as you did before until it’s completely moist with lacquer. Wait 48 hours before using the table.

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Staining wood is a intricate process because different pieces of wood absorb stains at various prices. Because of the inconsistency in absorption rates, you need to always practice your staining technique on a piece of scrap wood to test for color and texture. The wood will look dark and blotchy in case you do not eliminate enough stain until it dries. Removal is a simple, but delicate process if you have excess stain just on small areas of the wood. In case you have excessive wood stain over the whole wood, you must sand the wood and begin the staining process again.

Excess Stain Through the Wood

Sand the wood with 100-grit sandpaper by hand using a sanding block. Sand with the wood grain and operate till you eliminate all of the wood stain. It is possible to try to sand just the areas with surplus stain, but this method usually results in less than stellar results.

Clean the sanded surface to eliminate any dust. Use a vacuum or compressed air to blow off the surface.

Wipe the sanded surface with a damp sponge to remove any remaining dust residue to prevent it from contaminating the wood stain during application. Permit the surface to dry before implementing any stain.

Apply stain to the sanded surface with a sponge brush or rag. Let the stain to penetrate the wood until the proper shade is reached. Wipe off excess stain with a clean rag. The longer the stain remains on the forests surface, the darker it will become.

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Add renaissance charm to your home decor by distressing and aging a mirror . Pieces and bits of ephemera from the peek during the reflection, creating. New mirrors operate for this particular project, but you can also purchase mirrors that are discarded from yard sales, thrift stores or auctions. It isn’t important if they obsolete silvering, that’s the beginning of the look you would like to attain and have chipped.

Choose a well-ventilated area. A garage floor or table in a garage offer choices that are safe. Cover your work surface with layers of newspaper.

Eliminate and set it aside. If the mirror has a cardboard backing set it aside.

Wash out the front of the mirror with paper towels and window cleaner. Lay the mirror face down on your ready surface.

Oven cleaner, randomly, in small patches over the surface of the mirror. The silver disappears in the place of the stains. Create stains big enough to your chosen papers to reveal through the glass. There is, When the oven cleaner is applied to the back of the mirror. Before spraying the mirror, then test the cleaner on newspaper to ascertain size and the force of the program.

Permit the oven cleaner to set for 5 minutes. Put on rubber gloves. Using a plastic putty spatula or knife, then scoop the oven cleaner, as you remove the cleaner scraping the silvering. Wipe off the remaining residue with paper towels. Rub the region with steel wool, In case the silvering is not totally eliminated from the sprayed section.

Dip a cotton ball in household bleach. Randomly blot, trickle and stroke on the silvering of this mirror. Permit the bleach until the regions that are wet turn black to set. Wipe off the bleach and the entire trunk of the mirror with a damp rag.

Opt for the ephemera — pole or greeting cards, bookmarks — or background needed to fill in the bare areas from the mirror’s silvering. If is unique, you may want to print copies on your own printer. If copies are used, spray the surface of the paper with a light mist of clear acrylic spray sealer to set the ink. Permit the sealer to dry.

Cut the papers bigger than the bare spots on the mirror. Apply decoupage medium to the very front of the papers with a sponge brush. With the back of the mirror place the papers or cards face down on the bare areas. Smooth the papers with your fingers to press bubbles and wrinkles out. Permit the medium. Apply a thin coating of medium over the back of the papers.

Reattach the frame and financing.

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The effect of wood paneling on space air can be hard to ignore, and the dark wood tomes don’t fit with every design motif. In case a remodeling job has brought you to the stage of either removing the paneling or covering it with drywall, it may be relaxing to know that you don’t need to do. All you need to do in order to produce the paneling resemble drywall would be to skim-coat it using joint compound. While skim-coating can be tricky to do correctly, it is easier than the choices, and you don’t need to employ a professional to do it.

Inspect the paneling for loose borders or warping, and fasten loose sections securely to the studs using ring-shank nails. Sink all nail heads with a hammer and nail set.

Wash the paneling using a mix of 1/2 cup of trisodium phosphate detergent per gallon of warm water. This mixture not only cleans dirt and grease in the paneling, but it etches the end. Let the paneling dry, then scuff the surface together with 150-grit sandpaper to etch it even more.

Paint the paneling with a coat of interior latex or shellac-based wood tip. Apply the primer with a medium nap roller and paintbrush.

Tape the seams between panels using drywall tape in exactly the same manner you would tape routine seams seams. Spread a layer of joint compound along the flux using a 4-inch drywall knife, lay moistened drywall tape and scrape it flat with the knife. Immediately topcoat it with another layer of joint compound and scrape the chemical flat.

Let the taped seams dry, then topcoat with one or 2 more layers of joint compound. Scrape with a 6- to 8-inch blade, feathering the edges into the wall to make flat seams.

Skim-coat by spreading a thin layer of joint compound over the entire wall using an 8-inch drywall knife. Start in one of the best corners, applying hardened all-purpose joint compound on the wall using a paint roller or drywall knife and scraping the knife along the grain of the timber to flatten the mud. The layer shouldn’t be any thicker than about 1/8 inch.

Wait for the first skim coat to dry, then sand it with a pole sander and 120-grit sandpaper. Wipe off the sanding dust using a rag and, even if you can still see wood grain or tape seams, apply a second coat. Sand that coat when it dries and wipe off the sanding dust. Repeat a third time, if needed.

Apply a coat of PVA — or drywall — primer to the wall using a medium-nap roller and paintbrush. Let the primer dry, then paint the wall or hang wallpaper, as desirable.

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Gel stain, an oil-based choice to fluid wood stain, contains enough urethane you don’t need to employ a top coat, though you can if you would like to have more protection and higher shine. Thicker than fluid stains, gel stains provide immediate gratification to those who prefer to utilize wipe-on colour on bare oak furniture. They are also less cluttered, since they don’t drip like fluid stains, plus they provide a more shade, since they don’t run.

Remove any drawers in the furniture and unscrew the knobs from the drawers. Set the knobs and screws aside.

Put on a dust mask and mud the oak furniture using 180-grit sandpaper, followed by 220-grit sandpaper to open the pores of the oak and allow it to take the gel stain evenly.

Blow the sawdust off using a hair dryer, vacuum cleaner or can of compressed air. Vacuum sawdust off the floor.

Apply a coat of wood conditioner to the full surface of the furniture using a white cotton fabric or foam brush. Allow it to dry for 15 minutes and apply another coat. Allow the second coat to dry for 2 hours.

Stir the gel stain thoroughly using a paint stirrer to mix.

Put on a set of rubber gloves and dip a cotton rag to the gel stain.

Wipe the stain over the surface of the furniture, working in the direction of the grain. If the stain is thicker than you want, wipe off the extra with another white cotton fabric.

Keep changing wiping cloths until all the excess stain has been absorbed, to prevent seeing streaks and darker regions. Use an old dry paintbrush to get excess stain out of crevices.

Allow the stain to dry for eight to ten hours. Apply two layers, letting the second to dry for eight to ten hours and the previous coat to dry overnight.

Sand the furniture quietly using 600-grit sandpaper or 0000 steel wool. Blow Off the sawdust as you did in Step 3.

Employ one more coat of gel stain if you would like the timber to be darker. Allow this coat to dry overnight.

Employ a polyurethane top coat using a sponge brush if desired to give the furniture more protection and shine. Allow the top coat to dry overnight before replacing the drawers and knobs and using the furniture.

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Blow-in cellulose insulation is manufactured from recycled newspaper and treated with borate to leave it fireproof and insect-proof. It’s not watertight, but this’s usually not a problem unless the roof flows, a pipe bursts behind a wall or a levee is breached during flood season. Once cellulose insulation has been thoroughly soaked it becomes a problem in urgent need of a solution.

Cellulose Insulation and Moisture

Cellulose insulation is frequently installed damp, and its insulating properties have been undamaged by routine seasonal humidity. When cellulose insulation becomes inundated with water, nevertheless, it’s likely to sag and settle, leaving sections of the ceiling or wall cavity unevenly filled. Once that happens, the cellulose won’t function as an effective insulating substance.

Cellulose Insulation and Damage

Thanks to its borate therapy, mold won’t form on cellulose insulation. But mould will form on timber studs and drywall in contact with moist cellulose. That is why it’s urgent to eliminate water-soaked cellulose and replace it with new insulation.

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Time, dirt, humidity and rust all take their toll on a vintage steel headboard, even if it’s been properly stored. Unless it is falling apart from rust, however, the headboard can be solved to appear as good as it did on the day it was made. The work is well worth it to provide an antique treasure fresh life.

Rust

Rust is your headboard’s largest enemy and will need to be completely removed before refinishing or it’s going to continue to eat away in the bed. Light surface rust can be removed with sandpaper or steel wool. Use a steel brush to take off big flakes of rust if required before sanding. For heavily rusted pieces, a chemical rust remover can speed up the procedure. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully since fluid rust removers typically contain some form of acid.

Old Paint

If the metal headboard was previously painted, then the old paint will need to be stripped off unless it’s in very excellent condition with no flakes or chips. Old paint can be removed by sanding or by using a chemical paint stripper. Ensure the surface of the headboard is smooth and nice after the paint is removed. Any hanging chips of paint will show through the last finish. Begin with a coarse sandpaper, like 80 grit, and use it to remove the vast majority of the paint. After the paint is nearly off, switch to your fine-grit paper, like 200.

Preparation

Following any rust or old paint is removed, sand the entire frame using a fine-grit sandpaper to even the surface and give the paint a roughened area to grasp. Give the entire headboard a good cleaning with mild detergent which does not contain any abrasives or bleach, such as liquid laundry or dish soap. Dilute the detergent with water in a spray bottle, and use it to eliminate any remaining dust from sanding. Wipe it dry using a lint-free rag.

Painting

Paint can be sprayed or brushed on to finish the metal headboard. Utilize an oil-based paint for brushing and place the headboard erect, flattening it between two boxes or heavy objects to keep it in place. Work in sections, employing several thin coats of paint to prevent drips and brush marks. Paint labeled for steel which includes a rust inhibitor works best for spraying the headboard. Shake the can well, and apply the paint in long even strokes. Keep a brush to catch any drips. Apply at least two coats of paint whether spraying or brushing.

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