Watering Systems for Rose Beds

Essential to great growth and plentiful flowers, a rose garden requires careful watering. During active growth, garden roses (Rosa x hybrida) typically require a deep watering once a week to a depth of 5 to 6 inches. One of the most effective strategies to water roses is by hand using a garden hose and a water wand attachment, but this is time-consuming. Rose watering methods can save water and time without affecting rose health. All watering systems require time to set up and maintain.

Soaker Hoses

Efficient, low-cost, low-maintenance and easy to install — soaker hoses have a lot going for them. Water seeps out straight onto the soil through micropores from the hose wall, allowing water to penetrate deeply without flood. Take the soaker hose during the established rose bed at light curves to soak all of root canals or make a loop around the root zone of each rose bush. Hold the hose in place with wire pins meant for landscaping fabric. Do not run more than 100 feet of soaker hose connected together to keep water pressure during the length of the hose. Cover the hoses with mulch to hide them and to help retain soil moisture. You will want to experiment with just how long to let the water rush for water to reach 6 inches into the soil.

Drip Irrigation

Drip irrigation takes the most planning and maintenance, but it might conserve water. These systems utilize 1/2- to 1/4-inch-diameter plastic tubing and emitters for water delivery to each plant. Create a system plan so that you understand exactly what parts to buy. Manufacturers offer different kinds of emitters. Standard emitters discharge 1 to 2 liters of water per hour and require a longer run time. Assess for watering depth with a moisture meter by digging into the soil. For faster watering, utilize microsprayers, which set out 8 to 20 gallons of water per hour. Use several emitters for each rose bush, adding more as the rose rises. Examine the tubing and emitters each week to be sure everything is functioning as it should. In winter, you could have the ability to turn the system off. Most roses grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 10, though this varies depending on cultivar. Install drip systems before or after putting the bed.

Sprinkler Systems

Because roses are often vulnerable to fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew, if their foliage gets wet and stays wet, overhead sprinkler systems are not a great selection for increased beds. Rather, look at flat-head sprinklers which you install at ground level, since they deliver their water straight out above the soil instead of up into the foliage. Water early in the afternoon so any moisture on leaves dries before day. Sprinkler systems are best installed in rose beds before the bushes move in.

Semiautomatic and Automatic Systems

Once you understand how long you have to run your system to acquire the dirt moist to 6 inches down, you may use a controller to automate watering. Programmable timers may turn the water off and on for you. They vary in price and elegance. Reprogram your controller if the weather changes and watering needs are different. Wise controllers automate more fully since they feel conditions from the garden and determine when watering is necessary and for a long time, and shut on and off automatically.

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Privacy Screen Perennials

Good fences may make good neighbors, but living privacy displays take it to a different level. Plants soften the utilitarian appearance of wooden or chain-link fencing, and they offer habitats and food to birds while blocking undesirable views. You can custom-design a perennial privacy screen by choosing a single plant type or a mix of plants.

Add Some Color

A plant privacy screen does not have to be solid green. It is possible to plant flowering perennials which also add color and scent to your backyard. Silverberry (Elaeagnus pungens) contains many benefits in its perennial selection of U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 9. Fragrant white flowers bloom in fall against a backdrop of grayish-green foliage, and spiny branches discourage interlopers. Silverberry rises rapidly to form a sync display — 36 inches per year — and may reach a height of 20 feet. In USDA zones 5 through 8, Cornelian dogwood (Cornus mas) is awash with fragrant yellow flowers in late winter or early spring. Like silverberry, Cornelian dogwood reaches a height of 20 feet and can form a privacy screen. Although it’s a deciduous plant, it is possible to plant it in front of evergreens to delight in its reddish-brown exfoliating bark in winter.

Feed the Birds

Pacific wax myrtle (Myrica californica), also known as California bayberry, is an evergreen, multitrunked tree in USDA zones 7 through 10. Reaching a height of 25 feet, wax myrtle produces purple berries, which have a white, waxy layer that feed birds, such as robins, finches and flickers, in late fall and early winter. Also reaching a height of 25 feet, toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia) is widely known as California holly or Christmas berry because of its striking display of crimson berries in winter in USDA zones 9 through 11.

Enjoy the Fragrance

Fragrant foliage enhances the attractiveness of a privacy screen. Bay laurel (Laurus nobilis) has fragrant evergreen leaves at its perennial selection of USDA zones 8 through 10. This Mediterranean native can reach 60 feet tall, however, typically remains under 30 feet. In USDA zones 6 through 9, lavender cotton (Santolina chamaecyparissus) is a shorter tree with fragrant, silvery leaf which reaches only two feet tall and 3 feet wide. If you would like a solid privacy screen, lavender cotton helps fill at the decreased gaps that larger plants may create.

Mix It Up

Rather than planting a soldierlike row of one plant type to produce a privacy screen, design cluster plantings or staggered plantings to make a multidimensional effect. If you would like a privacy screen in just 1 section of the yard to hide a specific eyesore, cluster plants in groups of three, five or another odd number in front of the undesirable view. Multiple cluster plantings can create groves and walkways through the garden when hiding unattractive scenery outside your yard. Staggered plantings feature plants of different heights, textures and colors to make a tiered appearance that accentuates your backyard by breaking up a monochrome design.

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One Pot, One Huge Shot of the Tropics

To add a stunning touch to your house with something tropical and tall, look no farther than the Kentia palm (Howea forsteriana). It’sone of the all-time-most-popular palm houseplants. Unlike many other palm species, Kentia can manage low sun exposure, ac and heat. Additionally, it is quite tolerant of neglect. Just 1 consideration: Make sure you have plenty of space and an adequate ceiling height, because these tropical infants prefer to grow and grow and grow.

Period Homes, Inc..

This collection of three potted palms at an Dallas display house space conveys the sensation of a traditional conservatory, as a result of the lush tropical underplanting in each container, using arching fronds which fill the vertical space.

Whether a fantasy decor is a casual beach fashion or something nearer to the formal grandeur of a Victorian hand court, Kentia palm can help you get there.

Todd Peddicord Designs

A billiards room filled with antiques and old-world style appears to be an exotic empire-style jungle destination. Large pots filled with Kentia palm since the “thriller” and Boston fern since the “spiller” make a tropical ambience that is incomparable.

Henderson Design Group

An elegant Victorian home furnished with neutral decor is the best place for a tall Kentia palm, which makes a connection to the lush landscaping outside. Orange and yellow pillows and decorative accessories produce a joyous dance of color together with the philodendron leaf arrangement and also the feather-like green palm fronds.

Not surprisingly, a Kentia palm appears right at home at a timeless house in Portland, Oregon, built at the close of the Victorian era; palms became popular in that period and were a key element of Victorian parlor style.

Bon Vivant

An elegant Miami house with white walls and hardwood flooring (and of course a great skylight, which crops adore) becomes a taste of heaven with the accession of Kentia palms.


A single palm appears right at home amid contemporary furnishings in this New York coastal high-rise, and is a nice diversion from the massive column one often finds in contemporary construction.

As is clearly seen here, at least 2 Kentia palms are usually needed in 1 container for a full-looking arrangment, depending on the size of these plants.

Get Back JoJo

How to Take Care of Your Kentia Palm

Temperature: 50 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 20 degrees Celsius) is Best.

Light: It prefers areas with partial shade, not full sun. It’ll tolerate a somewhat dark corner inside.

Water: Water only when the uppermost soil layer is dry. Mist the plant to simulate humidity and to stop spider mite infestation, which may happen with dust buildup. Overwatering will cause root rot, and underwatering may cause yellow tips which can turn to brown. When the leaves and stalks aren’t standing upright, as they ought to, try out a deep watering, assuming there is enough drainage.

Soil: Sandy with good drainage, though Kentia is flexible to many different soil conditions. Since the plant is quite slow growing, you’ll most likely keep it in the exact same container for many years. Replace old, spent dirt (above the root ball) occasionally.

Feeding: Employ an 18-18-18 slow-release specialized palm fertilizer in accordance with the package instructions once or twice per year, at the summer and spring.

General: Avoid repotting, however it’s necessary, be very cautious when handling the main ball. The Kentia is a palm with roots.

Other Considerations

Air purification:
Kentia is good at cutting edge VOC levels — toxins that are released by cleaning supplies, printers and other family items.

Pets: Kentia is nontoxic.

Natural surroundings: Lord Howe Islands, east of Australia, where the single-trunk tree grows relatively slowly, attaining an average mature height of 20 feet. Long stalks produce bunches of white flowers, which turn into little, red, egg-shaped fruits.

A note on identity: The Kentia palm may look similar to the Parlor hand, and can be wrongly called by this name. While they both make good houseplants, the Parlor palm will stay quite small and is generally utilized at a pot onto a tabletop, while the Kentia can become quite tall.

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Southeast Gardener

July is your prize after many months of gardening from autumn prep to spring preparation — and you now get to reap your rewards with new fruits, vegetables and fragrant flowers. It’s a time of wealth.

July is not the best planting month for Southeast gardens, but it is a good time to prepare and plan. The weeds won’t let you rest, but they may slow down into a manageable pace throughout the dog days of the summer. Rainfall will best determine how long you will spend weeding. Weeds that are fewer , little rain. More rain, more weeds.

Gardening with Confidence®

Cut back annuals: Cut back summer annuals in order that they don’t get leggy. A good time to do this is right before you go on vacation; in this manner, you’ll be gone since the plants get a fresh start. Petunias benefit from this type of summer pinch. This cutback in the ends of the stems encourages branching, leading to a bushier plant.

Gardening with Confidence®

Practice shrewd watering methods: July could be a month with rain. When nature stops supplying routine rain, you might need to supplement. Here are a few pointers to help your backyard during a dry season:
Odds are your container plants need to be watered daily. Check by doing the finger test. If the top inch of soil is dry, it is time to water. Water thoroughly. Small pots will dry out quicker than bigger pots, and containers at sunlight will dry out quicker than those from the shade.Add mulch. A layer of mulch, 3 to 4 inches deep, can moderate soil temperature and reduce evaporation. Organic mulches include: composted leaves, shredded pine or hardwoods, and even nuggets. Mulches will also reduce marijuana creation and keep the lawn looking tidy.First season plants — those fall and spring additions — will need more frequent watering than established ones. Water new additions two or 3 times a week until the plants are created. Established plants usually require watering after a week.Conserve water by simply conducting a sprinkler during cooler hours, typically early in the morning. This can help reduce water loss due to evaporation. When at all possible, set up a drip irrigation system or a soaker hose to minimize waste. Watering in the morning also makes it possible for the water to dry on the leaves, minimizing mould formation.

Gardening with Confidence®

Deadhead and deadleaf spent flowers: Remove hosta flowers after the blossom is invested. They are primarily decorative and not a power source to the plant, so they don’t need to die back completely before removing.

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Deadhead the spent flowers of daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) , Shasta daisies (Leucanthemum spp.) ,black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia spp. ) and bee balm (Monarda spp. ) to prolong the bloom time.

Gardening with Confidence®

Do these yellow leaves of this daylily allow you to see red? They do to me. Not only do I deadhead my daylilies, but I also deadleaf. I really don’t like the appearance of yellow or decaying daylily leaves.

Gardening with Confidence®

Split irises: Can you have success with your new iris planted this year or two at the autumn? If not, it might be due to several factors: too much shade, too much fertilizer, too deep a planting, or crowding. July is a good time to fix any of these problems by lifting and relocating or repositioning into a more positive location.

Plant the iris high with the rhizomes along the surface of the dirt. They will be coated finely and gently using mulch, but not soil. Make sure that you are able to either see the rhizomes or even have the ability to brush away the mulch exposing the bulb.

With the exception of Louisiana variety, irises need six to eight hours of sun to blossom and require decent drainage. In case you’ve got a damp, partial sun location in your garden, plant a Louisiana iris.

Read on growing irises

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Harvest summertime edibles: Harvest berries when they are ripe. There’s nothing better than sinking your teeth into a ripe tomato, heated in sunlight. Weren’t plant tomatoes? See your regional farmers market to get a selection of new, field-grown varieties.

Inside your home backyard, keep an eye out for early blight. Blight is a fungal infection which will cause spots to develop on the foliage. The leaves begin to yellow and then drop. Pinch off foliage in the beginning indication. If too severe, there are numerous fungicides which can be used to reduce the symptoms.

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After the blackberry and raspberry harvest, remove the old fruiting canes to create room for the new canes that will make next year’s harvest.

Gardening with Confidence®

Manage pests: Do yourself a favor rather than explore the “eye” of a bagworm. Bagworms have got to be the most disgusting looking thing ever — to me anyhow.

Bagworms can be treated by removing them by hand and dropping into a bucket of soapy water. In case the bagworm infestation is not within easy access, they are sometimes sprayed with Bacillus thuringiensis, or Bt.

Bt is a microbial insecticide that is frequently used to control various caterpillars such as the red-headed azalea caterpillar along with many others, in addition to bagworms.

See more Southeast gardening guides

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Luxuriate in the Calm of a Minimalist Garden

Minimalist design has moved beyond inner layout. In the last several decades, glossy lifestyle magazines have featured immaculate interiors composed of carefully selected decoration, blank walls, practical furniture with transparent work surfaces and no mess.

But the concept of the minimalist garden follows the thoughts of the modernist architecture of the 20th century, when glass and concrete buildings took a unadorned surrounding landscape, and takes leads from your Zen gardens of Japan.

Minimalist gardens have become popular with those who prefer order, with simple lines and prohibitive planting, combined with the advantages of low care.

Let us look more closely at a number of the common themes found in minimalist garden layout — the usage of distance, pristine hardscaping, restrictive planting and formal water features.


A Doorway to Minimalism

The debut of this “rooms outside” style of garden design in the 1960s led us to see smaller gardens in another manner. Rather the garden turned into an extension of the house.

The debut of patio doors with large regions of glass, and later, bifold doors that pare back to remove any barrier between the interior and exterior, has forged the way for the invention of the minimal garden.

By making use of exactly the identical flooring material inside and outside a smooth transition is made between the distances.

To Japan’s Zen gardens, we should look for the supply of minimalism. The perfectly placed rocks set in immaculate gravel, raked into trapping patterns, are pure minimalism.

Japanese gardens are made in the pursuit of spirital equilibrium, but at the West that has become a garden style.


The usage of Space

Space is perhaps more significant in a minimalist layout compared to some of those individual defined features. The equilibrium between the zones or areas is vital in producing oneness with the comprehensive layout, and nothing should be permitted to distract from the invention of minimalistic perfection.


This beautiful illustration of a modern minimalst backyard, by London garden designer Amir Schlezinger, brings together the key features we’ve come to expect from this sort of layout.

The layout is appropriate and easy, upkeep is low, there is little or no ornamentation and planting is restricted. Each area of the garden is nicely defined, be it that the dining zone or relaxing/sunbathing area.

The weed-free and manicured lawn is elegantly straightforward and perfectly flat, with crisp edges.

Grounded – Richard Risner RLA, ASLA

Striving for Paving Perfection

Paving in minimalist gardens has to be easy and straightforward, yet highly engineered. The materials used need to be immaculate in complete — limestone or light sandstone are favorites utilized by designers, though polished concrete also fits the bill.

Although any minimalist garden should be as maintenance free as possible, any hardscaping has to be maintained pristine to acheive the look.

Maintenance tip: Pressure washing needs to keep more absorbent rock, such as limestone and sandstone, free from algae and dirt stains.


If regular pavers are used, they are generally butted with quite tight joints of 3 millimeters or not. The easy planting of boxwood (‘Buxus spp.’) Highlights the apparent lines of this paving.


Where Fewer Plants Can Be

With fewer plants utilized within this manner of layout, each plant needs to be carefully selected to do the job demanded of it — make it a focal point or a visual partition. Restricting the range of plants (such as this case to four species), enables the planting to soften the hardness of the design, but not detract from the line and structure.

Maintenance tip: Plant maintenance should be easy and not time consuming. Minimize watering by adding water-retention granules to planting composts, and use an automatic irrigation system on a timer. Slow-release fertilizer pellets may turn feeding into just an annual job.


The clean lines of this deck — minimalism has brought the use of decking to the maximum echelon — are complemented with all the bold tropical-style planting. This could be anywhere in warmer climes, but this courtyard is set on the banks of the River Thames at London.

The plants have been carefully selected to provide the feeling demanded. Hostas, Ligularias, bamboos and tree ferns have been planted in repetitive groups.

C.O.S Design

Creating a Reflective Atmosphere

Water attributes can change the mood of this style, which may be somewhat sterile or sterile. A reflective pool can help attain a relaxing setting, whereas the soothing sound of a modern waterfall or fountain brings a additional dimension.

The size of any water feature should be kept in scale with the distance and fit to the set geometry — many minimalist water attributes are formal.

The asymmetrical formality of the layout shown here is constructed around the tiled floor pool, linking all spatial regions of the backyard.

Thuilot Associates

This extended pool appears to flow out of the house, its reflective surface echoing the glow on the inside floor.

The pebble floor of this pond gives extra texture to the layout, yet a pure black reflective surface could have been achieved with black pond dye added to the water. This would have the benefit of blocking light, which would help prevent the development of algae and keep the pond at the spotless state demanded of minimalist layout.

Any water feature employed in minimalist designs must be ideal in construction and maintenance, and care needs to taken with water levels, pond hygiene as well as the disguising of almost any pond liner.

Huettl Landscape Architecture

This garden really sums up the ethos of how to create a minimalist design you can live with.
The space is crystal clear and obvious with a generous dining area set on immaculate paving floating over a profound refective pool. The plantings are easy, insistent and easily maintained.

Give Your Little Garden Some Room
Set of the Landscape: Modern Garden Style

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Fantastic Design Plant: Cape Rush

Your garden functions as an outdoor refuge — your personal refuge from the pressures and distractions of everyday life. If your current plantings are not taking you to this particular place or require a lot of maintenance, consider cape dash (Chondropetalum tectorum), the ideal exotic and decorative grass that only looks like it took forever to nurture.

Browse landscape layouts | More amazing design plants

Botanical name:Chondropetalum tectorum

Common names: cape rush, little cape dash

USDA zones: 8 to 10

Water requirement: Low

Sun requirement: Full sun to partial shade

Mature size: 2-3 feet tall and wide

Tolerances: Drought, deer, coastal, land

Far Out Flora

Distinguishing attributes. Cape dash is architectural yet still distinctly a grass. It arcs and bows with the cinch but obviously defines its shape and place in space. Banded sinuous green stalks persist throughout the year, while little brown flowers appear in terminal clusters come summer.


The best way to utilize it. Cape dash is tolerant of a wide assortment of soil types and moisture, which makes it versatile and flexible in a number of configurations. It provides a calming visual addition to an aquatic garden or around a pool, and its own coastal tolerance makes proximity to water even more viable.

Melissa Gale Photography

Cape dash is also ideal for arid landscapes, and its own breezy motion alludes to water in landscapes lacking that feature. Add natural slope stability to a hillside or utilize it for textural contrast in a minimalist garden.

Far Out Flora

Keep it rising. Hardy to around 20 degrees Fahrenheit, cape rush grows most successfully implanted in sunlight. While cape rush is drought tolerant once established, it can always benefit from occasional supplementary watering to enliven it.

Early spring calls for the removal of spent foliage to permit for new growth to emerge. Contrary to other clump perennial grasses, cape rush needs its older stalks removed individually as opposed to cut down to the floor. Divide every few years to encourage wholesome growth.

More excellent layout crops:
Black Mondo Grass | Blue Chalk Sticks | Feather Reed Grass | Hens-and-Chicks | New Zealand Wind Grass | Redtwig Dogwood | Toyon

Amazing layout trees:
Bald Cypress | Chinese Witch Hazel | Western Maple | Manzanita | Persian Ironwood
Smoke Tree | Tree Aloe

Great layout flowers:
Catmint | Golden Creeping Jenny | Pacific Coast Iris | Red Kangaroo Paw | Sally Holmes Rose
Slipper Plant | Snake Flower

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