How to Fix the Door Frame Behind the Lock

The side of a door frame in which the lock participates is called the “attack side” of the frame. The attack plunger passes a strike plate on the jamb and maintains the door closed, locked or both. The power of a door closing hard repeatedly, or being forced open, can damage the door frame in the area of the strike plate. When this happens, it’s necessary to fix the frame until it gets worse and needs replacing. The job isn’t difficult for the normal do-it-yourself enthusiast.


Open the door and then stabilize it with a doorstop. Loosen and remove the screws that hold the attack plate in the surface of the door jamb using a screwdriver. Take the plate off and save the plate and screws.

Cut the bead of caulking in the vertical seam in which the inner border of the door casing meets the outer edge of the jamb using a utility knife. Cut the vertical seam of caulking in the outer border of the casing in which it matches the wall from bottom to surface.

Start at the top of the vertical slice of casing. Insert the tip of a wood chisel in the seam in which the caulking was cut. Tap the grip of the chisel with a hammer to drive the tip completely under the casing. Pry on the handle of the chisel to detach the casing from the jamb and adjoining wall. Repeat the procedure in several places along the border of the casing to remove the piece.

Pull any finish nails left behind in the edge of the jamb or face of the wall using pliers. Pull finish nails from the rear side of the casing to prevent damaging the surface of the slice, with the pliers or claws of the hammer.

Repairing the Door Frame

Inspect the border and face of the door jamb in the area of the strike plate. If the jamb is split, then squeeze wood glue to the crack and nail the border of the jamb using 4d finish nails. Normally, two nails around one inch apart to the outer edge of the jamb will hold a split together while the glue dries.

Remove the doorstop and shut the door. Inspect the gap between the edge of the door and the surface of the jamb in the area of the strike plate. If the gap is over 1/8-inch wide, open the door and stabilize it using the doorstop.

Put in a wood shim from the gap behind the jamb in the area of the strike plate. Tap the finish with a hammer to make a 1/8-inch gap between the surface of the jamb and the border of the door. Secure the shim in place using a 6d finish nail throughout the surface of the jamb above and below the area of the strike plate. The nails must be 1 inch from the edge of the jamb to prevent splitting the wood.

Put in a 7/8-inch flat wood piece in a power or cordless drill. Utilize the existing hole for the attack from the jamb for a guide and drill through the wood shim.

Reattach the piece of casing in the face of the door jamb using 4d finish nails in the inner edge from bottom to top of the jamb. Attach the outer border of the casing in the wall with 6d nails in 8-inch intervals from bottom to surface. Set the nails 1/16-inch deep for stitch using a nail set and the hammer.

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The way to Identify Peach Tree Disease

Peach tree diseases can be caused by fungus, bacteria or virus. Identification of diseases might be difficult because insect, rodent, bird, mechanical or hail damage can be confused with some diseases. Nutritional deficiencies and herbicide damage can also be mistaken for disease. In addition, disease symptoms may differ from season to season. Diseases tend to be spread by insects or have alternate hosts in other species.

Obtain new disease samples employing clean garden shears or a knife. Secondary organisms can invade diseased materials, making identification difficult or impossible.

Observe states surrounding the tree carefully. Start looking for additional diseased trees or alternate hosts such as chokecherry.

Look for decay or loose bark at the root/crown location. A moist, slimy canker and orange to brownish wood indicates phytophthora crown rot. It will have a definite margin to the decayed area. White, fan-like sequences of fungus under the bark and loose shoestring like strands on the surface of the bark indicate armillaria root rot. Big warty growths indicate crown gall.

Examine the branches. Limb dieback and the presence of amber gum indicate bacterial canker. This is differentiated from borer damage by the sour odor of the sap beneath the bark.

Inspect the twigs. Collapsed flowers and twig spurs, tan-centered cankers with dark margins on twigs and maybe gray-brown spore masses around the flowers and twig cankers suggest brown rot blossom and twig blight. The same organism can cause ripe fruit decay later in the season. Small purplish dark spots which expand to brownish spots with purplish margins on twigs and buds indicate shot hole disease. Tiny, dark brown bumps appear in the middle of each lesion. Fruit and leaf symptoms might seem that look like the twig lesions.

Look at leaves in many areas on the tree. Symptoms on one leaf are usually trivial, but many contaminated leaves on a tree demand attention. Thickened, curly new leaves that are yellow or red are indications of peach leaf curl. Leaves drop when disease is severe, and repeated severe illnesses may cause the decline of the tree. Infection occurs only on young plant tissue and can be spread by splashing water during rain or sprinkler irrigation. Aphids and herbicide damage can also cause peach leaves to curl. Powdery white fungal growth on the leaves and tips of branches is powdery mildew.

Assess fruit to get symptoms. Brown discoloration of the fruit early in its development, whilst flower parts are still attached, indicates jacket rot. The youthful fruit withers and falls in the tree within a couple weeks. The exact organisms can infect mature fruit, forming circular spots that spread rapidly over the fruit. This is called ripe fruit decay.

Scan for symptoms that occur on multiple parts or the tree or even to get general decline of the tree. Leaves that turn yellow on one or more branches or a single side of the tree indicate verticillium wilt. Because the illness progresses, the leaves drop off and the division will die. Blisters or sloping splits in the invading, bright yellow angular spots on the top surface of the leaves and brown spores on the lower surface and small brown spots with green halos on fruit indicate rust.

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The Way To Cut Ceramic Tile That's Already Installed

Ceramic tiles are tough, durable coverings for both floors and walls. Installed properly, they could last for decades. Unfortunately, since the tiles are so durable, in case a brand new pipe is being laid or the tiles will need to be removed to achieve a few pipes behind the wall, then it is often simpler to cut them through than it is to remove them. While loose tiles are cut using a tile wet saw, installed tiles need to be cut with hand tools. To create box or square cuts in the tile, or to cut out large pieces of tile, use an angle grinder. To create circular cuts to accommodate pipes, use a hole saw.

Angle Grinder

Mark the tile or tiles which need to be trimmed using a grease pencil. The angle grinder may cut the tiles either on the esophagus or right through the tile; create as precise markings as you can to make sure the minimum amount of cutting will be required.

Put on safety glasses and a dust mask. The angle grinder will kick up plenty of ceramic and cement dust as it cuts. You’ll most likely need to cut all of the way through the backing of this tile as well as the tile itself. This may entail cutting through fiberglass, too, so take precautions against inhaling the dust.

Turn the angle grinder so the blade will satisfy the tile perpendicularly. Turn the grinder and thrust the blade straight down to the tile and its own maintenance. After you have cut through, it is possible to pull the blade back for a short cut, or thrust the sword away from you to continue cutting through the tile for longer cuts. Pull the blade straight up and out and turn off the saw between cuts when switching locations or angles.

Hole Saw

Mark the center of the area that you would like to cut the tile using a grease pencil. Put on eye protection and a dust mask to protect against dust.

Pour cooling oil within the tile where the cut will be created. The hole saw will heat up quickly; the cooling will stop it from heat before it cuts through the tile.

Attach the hole saw little to the drill, and place the tip of the guiding piece against the mark you made on the tile. Twist the back and forth a few times to assist the little begin to bite to the glaze on the tile. Initiate the drill, holding it straight up and down against the tile.

Permit the guiding piece to drill straight to the tile. The outer border of this hole saw will cut around the piece, producing a bigger hole at the tile, suitable for pipes to pass through. The little will hold the saw set up and keep it from wandering as possible cut. Keep on drilling straight down until you cut through the tile and its underlayment.

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Organic Mulches

The easy step of adding a protective layer of mulch for your garden results in a host of benefits for your plants. Mulch insulates the soil against water loss and changing temperatures. It discourages weeds and erosion. Various kinds of mulch have ornamental appeal. Organic mulches are antimicrobial substances that break down with time and change soil properties in a number of ways. These mulches contain many substances available to home gardeners at little or no cost.

Organic Mulches and Soil Construction

Organic mulches such as sphagnum peat moss and shredded bark change the construction of deep clay soils. Even shredded leaves from your yard raise the soil’s organic matter enough to clump dirt particles together. Clumped particles retain moisture, while the enlarged spaces between them supply oxygen for root development and beneficial soil organisms. Cultivation, heavy rainfall and walking on moist soil all split soil structure. A layer of organic mulch reduces the need for cultivation and cushions the dirt structure against other damage.

Organic Mulches and Soil pH

Acid-loving plants, such as rhododendrons, camellias, ferns and lemons, reap the benefits of Poisonous organic mulches such as pine needles, also called pine straw, pine bark, sawdust and sphagnum peat moss. Regular use of these products keeps an acidic soil pH level below 7.0. As sawdust and pine bark decompose, nevertheless, they attract nitrogen, which plays an integral role in producing new plant tissue, from the soil. Applying a nitrogen-based 10-6-4 fertilizer at the time of mulching can compensate for this effect.

How Much Mulch?

A 2- to 2 1/2-inch organic mulch layer is heavy enough to discourage weeds and take care of the soil’s temperature and dampness. Too much mulch, on the other hand, leads to waterlogged soil and also the possibility of root decay, especially during rainy winters and springs. Accumulated mulch building up around perennials may also decay their stems. Piled against the bases of trees and shrubs, it may lead to saturated bark susceptible to fungal disease.

Applying Organic Mulches

Successful mulching begins with smoothing the soil’s surface and also installing some type of edging to hold the mulch in place during rainfall. A decent edging goes at least 3 inches above the soil’s surface. Apply the mulch at an even thickness around your plants in spring, after the soil is no more moist from winter rain. Distinct organic mulches decompose at different prices, but all of these need periodic replenishing to maintain an even, 2- to 2 1/2-inch thickness.

Disadvantages of Organic Mulches

Snails and slugs often shelter in shredded leaf mulch, while shredded bark, which is extremely useful for protecting steep slopes, is difficult to rake or grass. Straw may include weed seed and may also be a fire danger. Mushrooms and other fungi often develop in decomposing organic mulch during rainy conditions. You may have to rake regularly to control fungal growth.

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Planting Instructions for Pond Plants

Seeing as your newly completed pond fills with water, your next step is to prepare the plants for setup. A well-designed water garden includes an assortment of water-loving rhizomes, perennials, reeds, rushes, lotus and lilies to oxygenate the water. Most aquatic and bog plants thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, based on the variety. While many submerged plants do not require special or permeable maintenance, some aquatic plants, like the yellow pondlily (Nuphar polysepala), common rush (Juncus patens) and dwarf papyrus (Cyperus papyrus “Little Egypt”), grow best when their roots are submerged in water.

The Potting Mix

Unlike a standard lightweight potting mixture, aquatic plants require a heavy clay mixture that will stay solidly from the plastic flowerpot. If the soil in your lawn is clay, then simply dig a few shovelfuls and set them in a flowerpot or dish pan. A loam or sandy soil could need the addition of unscented clay kitty litter. Mix equal parts of dirt and kitty litter to create the heavy base needed for a pond plant. Additionally, if your soil is poor, two or three slow-release fertilizer tabs inserted into the soil will feed the plants’ roots.

The Plants

Whether you’re planting an aquatic or bog plant, then the planting process is similar to any potted plant. Dig a hole in the middle of the flowerpot, deep enough to cover the plant’s roots. Place the plant into the ground at precisely the exact same thickness as in the first grower’s pot. Gently tamp the soil over the roots. When planting rhizomes, insert the bulb at or barely under the surface of the dirt. Smooth the dirt over the rhizome and tamp gently.

Protect the Roots and Rhizomes

If you are also raising koi or other fish, then your plants need safety. Koi eat the leaf and roots of plants. To keep them from nudging the dirt out of the way and devouring your plants’ roots, place several big rocks over the ground. Do not cover the eyes or leaves on the rhizomes with the stones; the leaf must reach the surface of the water to the plant to live. Some sources recommend covering the dirt with pea gravel, however, it is not a barrier to a determined and hungry koi.

Acclimate that the Plants

Fill a large tub with water and then check its temperature. Hardy aquatic plants tolerate temperatures as low as 55 degrees Fahrenheit, while tropical aquatics need temperatures above 70 F to thrive and thrive. By sinking each plant into a tub of water for many days or weeks, the loose dirt in the flowerpot will settle, maintaining your pond mud-free. In addition, it gives the rhizomes a chance to sprout before exposing them to the pond environment.

Sink the Plant

Before transferring the flowerpots into the pond, then determine the appropriate thickness for each plant. Put upside-down buckets or massive stones under each flowerpot to put it at the appropriate thickness for that particular plant. Bog plants are usually put on the ground surface, involving 1 to 6 inches under the water, while aquatics such as lilies might be positioned 1 to 3 feet deep.

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Cane Fencing Techniques

Fences made with bamboo canes bring a pure texture to gardens and recreational spaces, and the nature of a bamboo fence could be either whimsical and fun or sophisticated and dignified. Builders can utilize permeable materials to construct simple fences, or they may follow authentic Asian traditions to build historically accurate, refined fences.

Rolled Fence Panels

A simple method for building bamboo privacy fences utilizes prefabricated rolls of bamboo canes that could attach quickly and easily to a support framework. The builder sets vertical bamboo poles in concrete, then runs horizontal support rods between the poles near the bottom and top of the fence. The bamboo rolls, which contain canes bound together with string, unroll and attach to the framework formed by the poles and horizontal supports. In a more intricate design, the bamboo rolls sandwich in a lumber frame to make fence panels, which then fill the space between posts.

Nailed Fence Panels

Some bamboo fence designs contain canes nailed or screwed to wooden poles. The Japanese Kenninji style of fence is created this way, with horizontal split canes attached to vertical poles; in conventional fences, the fence poles are covered with broken bamboo canes to conceal the nails. When canes are nailed or screwed to this support, the builder must be careful not to break the canes; utilizing pliers in predrilled holes and being cautious not to over-tighten the screws can help stop splitting.

Tied Fence Panels

Many conventional styles of bamboo fences, including the Japanese Yotsume style of lattice fence, are created with canes tied together using a natural-fiber rope. In authentic Japanese fences, the string is made from hemp palm fibers, and the canes are tied having a conventional knot called otoko musu. The hemp-palm rope used in fence construction, known as some nawa, is dyed black, compared to the string used in other gardening software, which can be left a natural brown shade.

Split Canes

The simplest way to split bamboo for fence designs that require split canes is to use a bamboo splitter; differently configured splitters are designed to split canes into different numbers of evenly sized forks. If a splitter is not available, a dull machete or other big knife may be used to break the bamboo; tapping the machete using a hammer can help to drive the sword down the length of the cane. Both the knife and the cut edges of the bamboo would be potential sources of injury, so contractors should follow appropriate safety procedures, including wearing gloves and eye protection.

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Window Treatments for Glass Storm Doors

Locating window therapies for hurricane doors is a little tricky — the minimum distance between the storm door and entry door ensures that the majority of the conventional window options won’t work. But a few options are available, including built-in blinds, decorative window films, door-mounted blinds made particularly for storm doors, and a simple, classic window treatment installed on magnetic curtain poles. Drilling into your door may null the warranty, especially in case you’ve got a storm door full of an insulating product, so check with your manufacturer before you make a last choice.

Factory-Installed Blinds

Avoid adding mass between your storm door and the entry door by swapping out the storm door glass panel with a single featuring a built-in blind. This only works if you’ve got a door that allows you to replace the glass panel using a screen and when your manufacturer makes a glass panel using built-in blinds. If neither of those conditions exist, and then you still need the built-in blind option, purchase a storm door using this attribute. The blinds have been controlled by a lever on the exterior the door but stay between 2 panes of glass.

Window Film

This non-permanent, cost-effective option comes in an array of finishes and using various attributes, from UV protection to picture using a one-way mirror effect so that passersby can not look inside. Other choices include faux-grills and scrolls to add a decorative element, a frosted film to prevent the view, fake rice paper to add privacy and a subtle Oriental touch, and UV filters that raise the energy efficiency of this door. While the chances are extensive, setup is generally easy — you’ll simply need to clean the glass thoroughly and use the film based on the manufacturer’s instructions, usually with soapy water and a plastic scraper. For perfect results, hire a professional who specializes in window tinting.

Add-on Blinds

A few manufacturers make something that mimics the built blind look that is available on a few storm doors. A framed, low-profile attachment includes a conventional blind positioned behind a pane of security glass, which mounts directly to a storm door, providing the illusion of a storm door with a built-in blind. Even though these products are normally quite low profile, they still may not utilize all doors; the goods require that you drill to a door, which may hurt the door or null its warranty.

Door-Mounted Panels

When all else fails or you merely want that classic window treatment look, hang a panel window treatment by magnetic poles mounted just above and below the glass portion of the storm door. This only works if you’ve got ample distance between the 2 doors and you can find low-profile mounts. Slide the poles to the top and bottom pockets of a panel and then secure them to the magnetic mounts. Cinch the middle of this panel using a tieback when you want to have more light, or leave it as-is for solitude. Magnetic poles may slip and slip a little and need readjustment on occasion, but the magnets are usually strong enough to stay in position if the door is not opened roughly or slammed. If you’re able to drill to your storm door, then you can also use standard curtain rods.

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Colors That Match a Caramel Sofa

A caramel-colored sofa is a confection, a plateful of rich, lush, honeyed cream or toasty orange-brown in the room. Caramel can be nearly a neutral — so it adapts to a wide assortment of surrounding shades — however it’s too much heat to ignore. Factor the sofa to the palette choices for the space, whether you’re designing an open-plan loft, light-filled vacation home or romantic urban living room at a compact flat.

Elephant in the Room

Caramel’s warmth, tempered by hues of gray, results in a sophisticated color scheme in a living room. Attempt a charcoal wall supporting the caramel leather sofa, dove-gray on the other 3 walls, natural hardwood flooring, a wheat-colored Berber carpeting, and also teak-and-glass tables. A wander of gray smoke on the walls, gunmetal-gray rugs, a caramel leather sectional, a mix of faux-palomino hide and jade-colored fabric upholstery, and elm bookcases is diverse and timeless. Ragged elephant-gray walls, antique white trim and a caramel leather couch can handle a giant sepia-toned map on one wall and touches of vivid African fabrics and art throughout the room.

Mixed Spices

The sofa is caramel-colored upholstery — fabric or leather — and a mishmash of antiques and modern pieces includes a melange of textures. A set of reproduction Louis XV gilt chairs is upholstered in striped mint-and-white brocade; the identical fabric can be used for the ceiling-to-floor drapes that pool on the cork-tiled ground. Walls are decorated palest mint-green, with trim, doors and ceiling at medium-gloss, creamy white. Gnarled burl end tables flank the sofa; a contemporary Murano-glass chandelier gleams with pendants and pieces of jade, emerald, red and butterscotch-colored glass. The low, square coffee table fully covered at cherry-red glove leather, sits on a Tabriz carpet patterned in reds, creams and greens.

Soft Touch

A velvet-upholstered down sofa in soothing caramel gleams against colorwashed blush-pink walls and deep rose taffeta drapes. You do not need bold colors when you have beautiful old furnishings and age-distressed decor at a formal sitting area. A classic chandelier could be at home in this space, as would a pier glass over the mantel, a marble fireplace surround and oil paintings on the walls. Pick patterns in pink complement — spring hues of wood — to cover a pouf or a wing chair and matching hassock, and keep wood furniture frames lighting, in natural wood tones near caramel. A faded antique oriental carpet underfoot weaves the tints and textures of the elegant room together.

Ship to Shore

The caramel linen sofa is crisp and contemporary, exactly like the sea-colored medium-blue within an ikat pattern on fitting chairs and the blue-and-white curtains that frame a seaside view. This living room needs plenty of chrome and shiny silver touches — in the ground lamp, the frames of white photos displayed on a single chalk-white wall, the collection of mercury globes on a shelf. A contemporary, abstract-design, blue-and white low-shag carpet specifies that the conversation space. The pecan-wood wall system, in front of a deeper ocean-blue accent wall, does combined duty as a networking center, library and library for a few antique pond yachts at a comfortable vacation home.

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The ideal Color Paint for Hunter Green Carpet

Although hunter green is derived from the secondary colour green, this deep version of green plays a part light as a dark, trendy colour in home decor, also unites handsomely in colour schemes which have neutrals, delicate pastels and even bright jewel-toned colours. Although often overlooked as a shade color, green’s flexibility, particularly in its deeper colors, makes it appealing and practical. Hunter green reveals less regular wear and tear in relation to a lighter hue. Pick a wall color that you like and harmonizes with the carpet’s color and other colours in the room — a shade that suits the objective of the room and functions well at different times of day.

Appealing Classics

As a familiar and beloved color in character, green has instant appeal in an interior space. Dark green rug evokes shade and grass, a cool and refreshing sensation. A palette which combines dark green with light all-natural neutrals suggests wall colours like stone, silvery moon, honeycomb or creamy white. These lighter hues balance the dark ground color, and leave room for a selection of accessory accent colours in more powerful medium tones like teal blue, cranberry red or burnt orange. A medium-toned neutral colour like khaki tan works contrasts nicely with hunter green at a classic mixture, particularly effective when accented with white woodwork.

Monochromatic Schemes

A monochromatic palette builds a colour scheme around one shade. Look for a paint colour strip where the darkest shade matches your hunter green rug and pick one of the tints of the color for your walls. The lighter the tint, the more open the space looks when painted. Add white trim to get a smooth finish that emphasizes architectural detail. Lighter, grayer tones of green like sage are also excellent companions for hunter green. If dark wall colours intrigue you, paint the walls hunter green to match the rug for a dramatic impact. White or creamy trim sets off the dark wall colour and presents light neutral tones you can repeat in fabrics and accessories.

Comfortable Coordinates

Study a colour wheel to get an understanding of color relationships. Colors alongside each other on the colour wheel are comparable. A vibrant comparable palette based on hunter green unites fabric colours, like peacock blue, chartreuse and white with light gray-green walls. Created out of and set between primary colors yellow and blue, green thankfully relates to green-blue, green-yellow, blue-green and yellow-green, together with tints and hues of every one. By forming tints when you include white, and colors when you include black, analogous colors offer a selection of appealing colour options for wall in a room with a hunter green rug.

Create Contrasts

An accent wall in a contrasting shade adds life and interest to your space. For instance, with hunter green carpeting, red — green’s complementary straight across it about the color wheel forms a stunning accent wall using three white walls. Accent walls in rooms using dark-colored green carpeting are most effective when the encircling walls are light neutrals like vanilla, silver or white. Lime green or some other earth tone are suitable accent possibilities. A deep or light tone of a neutral wall colour forms a low-contrast, subtle accent wall. Accent wall colours are most successful when the shade is repeated in fabrics and accessories at the room.

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