The way to Identify Peach Tree Disease

Peach tree diseases can be caused by fungus, bacteria or virus. Identification of diseases might be difficult because insect, rodent, bird, mechanical or hail damage can be confused with some diseases. Nutritional deficiencies and herbicide damage can also be mistaken for disease. In addition, disease symptoms may differ from season to season. Diseases tend to be spread by insects or have alternate hosts in other species.

Obtain new disease samples employing clean garden shears or a knife. Secondary organisms can invade diseased materials, making identification difficult or impossible.

Observe states surrounding the tree carefully. Start looking for additional diseased trees or alternate hosts such as chokecherry.

Look for decay or loose bark at the root/crown location. A moist, slimy canker and orange to brownish wood indicates phytophthora crown rot. It will have a definite margin to the decayed area. White, fan-like sequences of fungus under the bark and loose shoestring like strands on the surface of the bark indicate armillaria root rot. Big warty growths indicate crown gall.

Examine the branches. Limb dieback and the presence of amber gum indicate bacterial canker. This is differentiated from borer damage by the sour odor of the sap beneath the bark.

Inspect the twigs. Collapsed flowers and twig spurs, tan-centered cankers with dark margins on twigs and maybe gray-brown spore masses around the flowers and twig cankers suggest brown rot blossom and twig blight. The same organism can cause ripe fruit decay later in the season. Small purplish dark spots which expand to brownish spots with purplish margins on twigs and buds indicate shot hole disease. Tiny, dark brown bumps appear in the middle of each lesion. Fruit and leaf symptoms might seem that look like the twig lesions.

Look at leaves in many areas on the tree. Symptoms on one leaf are usually trivial, but many contaminated leaves on a tree demand attention. Thickened, curly new leaves that are yellow or red are indications of peach leaf curl. Leaves drop when disease is severe, and repeated severe illnesses may cause the decline of the tree. Infection occurs only on young plant tissue and can be spread by splashing water during rain or sprinkler irrigation. Aphids and herbicide damage can also cause peach leaves to curl. Powdery white fungal growth on the leaves and tips of branches is powdery mildew.

Assess fruit to get symptoms. Brown discoloration of the fruit early in its development, whilst flower parts are still attached, indicates jacket rot. The youthful fruit withers and falls in the tree within a couple weeks. The exact organisms can infect mature fruit, forming circular spots that spread rapidly over the fruit. This is called ripe fruit decay.

Scan for symptoms that occur on multiple parts or the tree or even to get general decline of the tree. Leaves that turn yellow on one or more branches or a single side of the tree indicate verticillium wilt. Because the illness progresses, the leaves drop off and the division will die. Blisters or sloping splits in the invading, bright yellow angular spots on the top surface of the leaves and brown spores on the lower surface and small brown spots with green halos on fruit indicate rust.

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Cane Fencing Techniques

Fences made with bamboo canes bring a pure texture to gardens and recreational spaces, and the nature of a bamboo fence could be either whimsical and fun or sophisticated and dignified. Builders can utilize permeable materials to construct simple fences, or they may follow authentic Asian traditions to build historically accurate, refined fences.

Rolled Fence Panels

A simple method for building bamboo privacy fences utilizes prefabricated rolls of bamboo canes that could attach quickly and easily to a support framework. The builder sets vertical bamboo poles in concrete, then runs horizontal support rods between the poles near the bottom and top of the fence. The bamboo rolls, which contain canes bound together with string, unroll and attach to the framework formed by the poles and horizontal supports. In a more intricate design, the bamboo rolls sandwich in a lumber frame to make fence panels, which then fill the space between posts.

Nailed Fence Panels

Some bamboo fence designs contain canes nailed or screwed to wooden poles. The Japanese Kenninji style of fence is created this way, with horizontal split canes attached to vertical poles; in conventional fences, the fence poles are covered with broken bamboo canes to conceal the nails. When canes are nailed or screwed to this support, the builder must be careful not to break the canes; utilizing pliers in predrilled holes and being cautious not to over-tighten the screws can help stop splitting.

Tied Fence Panels

Many conventional styles of bamboo fences, including the Japanese Yotsume style of lattice fence, are created with canes tied together using a natural-fiber rope. In authentic Japanese fences, the string is made from hemp palm fibers, and the canes are tied having a conventional knot called otoko musu. The hemp-palm rope used in fence construction, known as some nawa, is dyed black, compared to the string used in other gardening software, which can be left a natural brown shade.

Split Canes

The simplest way to split bamboo for fence designs that require split canes is to use a bamboo splitter; differently configured splitters are designed to split canes into different numbers of evenly sized forks. If a splitter is not available, a dull machete or other big knife may be used to break the bamboo; tapping the machete using a hammer can help to drive the sword down the length of the cane. Both the knife and the cut edges of the bamboo would be potential sources of injury, so contractors should follow appropriate safety procedures, including wearing gloves and eye protection.

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Window Treatments for Glass Storm Doors

Locating window therapies for hurricane doors is a little tricky — the minimum distance between the storm door and entry door ensures that the majority of the conventional window options won’t work. But a few options are available, including built-in blinds, decorative window films, door-mounted blinds made particularly for storm doors, and a simple, classic window treatment installed on magnetic curtain poles. Drilling into your door may null the warranty, especially in case you’ve got a storm door full of an insulating product, so check with your manufacturer before you make a last choice.

Factory-Installed Blinds

Avoid adding mass between your storm door and the entry door by swapping out the storm door glass panel with a single featuring a built-in blind. This only works if you’ve got a door that allows you to replace the glass panel using a screen and when your manufacturer makes a glass panel using built-in blinds. If neither of those conditions exist, and then you still need the built-in blind option, purchase a storm door using this attribute. The blinds have been controlled by a lever on the exterior the door but stay between 2 panes of glass.

Window Film

This non-permanent, cost-effective option comes in an array of finishes and using various attributes, from UV protection to picture using a one-way mirror effect so that passersby can not look inside. Other choices include faux-grills and scrolls to add a decorative element, a frosted film to prevent the view, fake rice paper to add privacy and a subtle Oriental touch, and UV filters that raise the energy efficiency of this door. While the chances are extensive, setup is generally easy — you’ll simply need to clean the glass thoroughly and use the film based on the manufacturer’s instructions, usually with soapy water and a plastic scraper. For perfect results, hire a professional who specializes in window tinting.

Add-on Blinds

A few manufacturers make something that mimics the built blind look that is available on a few storm doors. A framed, low-profile attachment includes a conventional blind positioned behind a pane of security glass, which mounts directly to a storm door, providing the illusion of a storm door with a built-in blind. Even though these products are normally quite low profile, they still may not utilize all doors; the goods require that you drill to a door, which may hurt the door or null its warranty.

Door-Mounted Panels

When all else fails or you merely want that classic window treatment look, hang a panel window treatment by magnetic poles mounted just above and below the glass portion of the storm door. This only works if you’ve got ample distance between the 2 doors and you can find low-profile mounts. Slide the poles to the top and bottom pockets of a panel and then secure them to the magnetic mounts. Cinch the middle of this panel using a tieback when you want to have more light, or leave it as-is for solitude. Magnetic poles may slip and slip a little and need readjustment on occasion, but the magnets are usually strong enough to stay in position if the door is not opened roughly or slammed. If you’re able to drill to your storm door, then you can also use standard curtain rods.

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Floor-to-Ceiling Tile Requires Bathrooms Beyond and Above

Higher interest in European-style wet rooms may have kicked off the recent surge in floor-to-ceiling tiled walls. Designers and contractors are paying careful attention to international design, which contains an accessible curbless shower entry. A moist room is the very best approach to reach this in the smallest amount of distance, and extending the same tile throughout a smaller area will help make it look bigger while reflecting light.

The appearance ranges in the plainest of white porcelain tiles with white grout to colorful mosaics, from classic Victorian to contemporary. Here are a dozen dramatically different ways to try this savvy move.

Cary Bernstein Architect

Go monochromatic. A 1- by 1-inch tile in a solid color adds texture in a lively, clean-lined and contemporary layout.

John Lum Architecture, Inc.. AIA

Emphasize one accent wall. The huge cream tiles onto this wall support the small-scale green glass mosaic tile.

ZeroEnergy Design

Pay attention to proportion and split the tile up so. While using the exact same tile all over a bathroom can work, other spaces might require dividing up. In cases like this, the ceiling height is much greater than the breadth, therefore employing a white tile overhead gave this room pleasing proportions. Bonus: With a less expensive tile up high can continue to keep the tile from breaking your budget.

Tim Barber Ltd Architecture

Another way would be to utilize paint and shingles .

Larson Shores Architects

Bring in electricity and color via a vibrant mosaic. Small-scale mosaic tiles energize this bathroom and are a superb waterproof wallpaper alternative.

Take the traditional subway tile and grey grout mix all of the way up the wall. Break it up with fixtures, mirrors, windows and trim; perform off its regularity with a river pebble tile floor.

Alan Design Studio

Match a dressing table to the wall tile’s color, then add contrast via the ground and counter tops. I can’t get enough of this mix of greens with gray and white marble in this elegant bathroom.

Supon Phornirunlit / Naked Decor

Bounce the light around. In a bathroom that receives little or no natural light, light-colored tiles signify it and also make things brighter. Iridescent glass tiles are a good choice for this.

Tip: Think big when you find a significant sale. Covering a wall in tile can run you a lot more than covering it with paint or wallpaper. If this toilet’s designer found the tiles he liked at the Home Depot Expo were more than half, he snapped up enough of them to redesign all three of his bathrooms.

Jamie Herzlinger

Include the flooring and the ceiling. There is not much breaking up the energetic pattern of this mosaic, which makes this bathroom an urbane jewel box.

Designpad architecture – Patrick Perez Architect

Use similar tiles in different scales. Large tiles distinguish the bathtub and the wall behind it in the sink wall’s little mosaic, while the floor’s tiles are the largest.

Mark Brand Architecture

Use clear glass onto the shower door and a fitting tile in the stall. This extends the tile color and layout and makes the room feel bigger.

Lizette Marie Interior Design

Go vertical. When you’re extending up tile the entire wall, look at turning it sideways and emphasizing height and verticality.

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Fruit Displays Sweeten Summer Interiors

Fruit may be a great source of dietary fiber, packed with nutritional benefits and high vitamin content, however, the designer in me can’t help loving it to its styling capabilities. Much like showing fresh flowers, a fruit arrangement adds life for the interior and offers a refreshing punch. This summer, take a hint from nature and display your fruit prior to digging in.

Dear Lillie

Clementines are flanked by new greens, all artfully displayed in a bit from Ikea’s Fintorp collection.


Accessorizing your outdoor dining table is essential. Display Granny Smith apples in a large, clear bowl for a go-to centerpiece.

Charmean Neithart Interiors

A happy home has an organized pantry. Have a cue from Charmean Neithart and separate and exhibit your fruit in open wicker baskets.


A huge wooden fruit bowl delivers the perfect contrast from a sleek white Carrara marble counter tops.

Arcanum Architecture

Mix it up and exhibit various fruits in various bowls. Variety is the spice of life!

Pc, Mojo Stumer Associates.

While fruit is perishable, fruit art is not.


Fill a small, narrow boat with flowers and water and set it at the middle of a larger vase. After that, hide the container by encircling it with fruit to the ultimate summer arrangement.

Pottery Barn

Stackable Fruit Crates – $119

Separate and exhibit your fruit in style using stackable farmer’s market- inspired crates.

Vanessa De Vargas

Adding fruit into a neutral interior is an excellent method to play around with new color schemes.

How can you celebrate summer fruit in your home? Leave a comment and tell us!

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Étagère Herb Gardens Keep Flavor Within Reach

Brand new, healthy herbs make wonderful companions to each of your favorite foods, but running back and forth to the shop to pick up them might be time consuming and pricey. It is easy to plant some of your favorite picks either inside or out without needing to make a special, dedicated bed in your yard. An étagère — a mild, staircase-like bit of shelving makes an perfect place for growing and keeping all of your favorite herbs directly at your finger (or scissor) hints all year round.

Since herbs grow so well in a group, keeping them together in an étagère, as user Dedeme68 has done in her backyard in Australia, can help them thrive. This is a superb way to keep fresh herbs without the dedication of a plant bed.

Simple, easy-to-find terra-cotta pots are one of the most perfect houses for herbs. They are naturally porous, allowing water and air to move through readily and supplying the perfect environment for healthy root development.

Kim Woods

If you are short on space in your étagère shelves, planting numerous herbs in 1 pot is a superb alternative. Basil and curly parsley both appreciate water, which they make great companions. Rosemary, sage and oregano thrive in drier environments and do nicely together.

Gardener’s Supply Company

Vertical Wall Garden – $59.95

One of the most intriguing things about herbs is that they can have a beneficial connection to one another. Basil, chamomile and chamomile, by way of instance, are exceptional herbs to plant together because basil’s growth is aided by chamomile while oregano’s growth is aided by basil.

Charleston Gardens

Literary Herb Markers: Thyme, Basil, Rosemary, Mint (Set #1) – $48

If some one of your herbs is looking wilted or feeble, think about finding one of its companion herbs to plant nearby.

Gardener’s Supply Company

A-Frame Plant Stand Set – $109

Employing an étagère can also be an excellent way to plant an indoor herb garden. Make sure to put it in a sunny place where the herbs will receive mild at eight hours a day.

Remember that indoor herbs can be subject to pest problems because they aren’t exposed to the winter frosts that kill pest eggs. To free your indoor garden from insects, just have a bottle of sterile water and spray all sides of the leaves before the bugs are all gone. Soap kills the eggs but doesn’t harm the crops.


Three-Tier Iron Plant Rack – $119

Another bonus to étagère herb gardening is that, on a stand such as this, you can choose to use 1 row for herbs and the others for different decorations.


Herb Garden Stakes – $24

It can be easy to combine herbs up, especially in the event that you plant them from seeds. Beautiful garden stakes such as these make sure that you don’t feed the kitty cilantro or flavor your cocktail using catnip!

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Building a Ground Level Deck Using Treated Lumber Beams

Ground-level decking doesn’t signify that the surface of the deck is flush with the ground. Ground-level decking essentially suggests that it requires just a comfortable step up. Ground-level decks function well for entertaining, and add a certain charm to your garden or yard.

Stake the Footprint

Begin by tapping bets to the ground in all four corners, the stakes represent the holes for the footings. One important step that is sometimes missed: squaring the footprint. Perfectly square or rectangular shapes are essential for efficiency when decking planks are additional. It means the ends of the planks will be, as well as the gaps between planks will be equal. Square the footprint by measuring diagonally from corner to corner across the bets. This process works for square or rectangular decks. If the dimensions are not precisely the exact same for the two dimensions, adjust the bets until the measurement from one diagonal corner matches the measurement for another corner. Insert additional bets — using the string to align them concentrated between the corners if the footprint is more than 72 inches long. If the deck is more than 16 feet, plan on putting a wager based at 16 feet, to ensure that two beams buttocks together over one footing.

Concrete Footings

Dig the holes for concrete footings indicated from the bets. The holes must be approximately 8 inches wide and 12 inches deep. Home supply stores carry pre-mixed concrete. Figure on using one, 50-pound bag for each hole. Mix the concrete using water at a wheelbarrow using a shovel, until the concrete keeps a consistency of thick, pourable mud. Pour the concrete into the holes, flushing the concrete using the ground. For a bit more height on the footings, build a few little plywood forms to raise the footings a few inches or use pre-made tube forms. Insert article anchors to the concrete while it’s still wet. Post anchors are bolts using 3-by-3 metallic sleeves, or open-ended boxes connected to the top. The horizontal support beams match in the boxes. Push the bolt to the concrete to flush the base of the metallic sleeve using the concrete. Expand the article anchors using a very long, straight board. Measure diagonally across the masonry to guarantee everything is square. Allow 72 hours for the concrete to cure.

Horizontal Frame

Double-up two pressure-treated 2-by-6 beams for the flat supports. You do not need to use pressure-treated timber, however, the extra longevity is well worth it. The combined width of the flat beam is 3-inches, because 2-by-6 beams are just 1 1/2 inches in width. It’s a great idea to work with a half-lap joint on the corners. Essentially, allow a stair step effect on the ends of this doubled-up beams; among the measures overlap the step on the adjoining corner. Screw the flat frame with 3-inch screws. It’s possible to work with nails, but screws tighten better, and so are more inclined to stay put than screws. Screw 90-degree angle brackets — metal corners bent at 90 degrees — into the inside corners.

Metal Hangers

Joist support depends upon formulas which take into account kind of timber, spacing and intended usage of this deck. Check with a specialist if you have any questions regarding your design. In most cases 12-inch spacing is much more than adequate for joists up to 16-foot in length, nor need additional footings. Measure and divide the frame to 12-inch increments on the inside, switching between the two upper sides. Screw joist hangers into the inside of the frame on both the sides centered on the dimensions. Joist hangers are metal brackets or boxes. The ends of the flat 2-by-6 joists fit to the boxes on both sides. Measure and trim pressure-treated joists and insert them inside the boxes. Insert additional screws to the boxes, then securing the joists. Added strength an be added with optional screws through the flat frame, entering the ends of the joists.

Decking Choices

Several options for decking comprise 2-by-4s made from fir, weather-resistant lumber like redwood, composite decking or 5/4-by-6 standard treated decking boards. Fir is a strong, resilient and reasonably priced. It’s likely that the joists are also fir. Pine or cedar are other options for decking, but lack the power of fir. Utilize redwood is for a high-end appearance. It’s more expensive than fir but it’s durable and insect-resistant. Composite decking is artificial timber, produced from wood byproducts. It’s the maintenance-free of this other decking materials. Depending on quality, the price of composite decking may competitor redwood, however when calculating the price of maintaining real wood through the years, composites can actually save money in the long run. The best choice overall, since the deck is low to the bottom — might function as standard, 5/4-by-6 treated decking boards. Depending on where you buy them, these often have a lifetime limited warranty. Screw the decking to the frame using two, 3-inch screws for each piece at each joist. Drive the screws in tight enough to soften the head of the screwthread.

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Get Hooked on Bentwood Chairs

The term “bentwood” refers to the craft of wetting wood with water or steam and bending it into shape to make furniture. The most iconic examples of bentwood furniture are Thonet’s bentwood chairs, that have been first made by Michael Thonet from the early 19th century. Today, bentwood furniture is manufactured by many companies, such as Thonet, across the globe.

Bentwood chairs vary from the super simple to the highly elaborate. (Generally speaking, the curves and twists an antique slice gets, the more precious it might be.) Traditionally, bentwood furniture had a natural wood color, but now you can find many painted pieces.

With its sculptural lines and graceful curves, a bentwood chair is a stylish addition to any interior. Here are 11 rooms that feature these chairs.

Kentaro Kurihara

Bentwood chairs remainder outside with this patio in Japan. While the pair looks lovely outdoors, most bentwood pieces should be used primarily inside.

Camilla Molders Design

This kitchen by Camilla Molders Design includes bamboo cabinetry. The reddish bentwood stools pop against the natural wood and match the green-blue walls.

The breakfast nook of the Tudor-style home gets a fashionable lift from a pair of cross-back bentwood chairs along with a petite round dining table.


A mod-looking office employs a bentwood chair with a caned chair as its visitor chair. The black end visually transforms into the desk.

Emily McCall

Timeless bentwood chairs are matched with an upholstered bench and tulip-style dining table. The eclectic pairing works because of the area’s mainly white background and use of neutral colours.

Ehrenclou Architects

A set of six bentwood chairs is a trendy yet surprising selection with this beachfront home with modern concrete floors.

Schranghamer Design Group

Bentwood bistro chairs include a European touch for the Martha’s Vineyard dining area by Schranghamer Design Group.

Andrew Flesher Interiors

Designer Andrew Flesher sets white bentwood chairs against a dark wall to get a stunning effect.


In blogger Victoria Smith’s San Francisco flat, bentwood chairs are painted white, which will be fitting in her largely ivory-hued home.

The Red Jet

A classic shell chair plus a walnut chair team up with a bentwood Thonet model for an eclectic set in the home of Amanda of the blog The Red Jet.

Leicht Küchen AG

A reddish Leicht Küchen AG kitchen has been matched with white and black striped wallpaper and classic Thonet chairs for a traditional layout with a twist.

Guest Groups: Take a Seat
Give Your Space a Leg Up

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What type of Oil Spray Can I Use to Remove the Black My Satsuma Tree Leaves?

Satsuma tangerine trees (Citrus reticulata) can be as close to perfect as citrus trees get. The most cold-tolerant of all citrus, they develop in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8b through 11. They’re also small enough to grow as houseplants while producing delightfully fragrant spring blooms and sweet, juicy winter. If you are accustomed to satsuma’s virtues, having oily black smears blemish it may be unsettling. The black is sooty mold, the aftermath of a pest infestation. Use oil sprays to eliminate the insects responsible, and sooty mold eventually disappears on its own.

Aphids and Whiteflies

Tiny aphids and whiteflies sometimes target satsumas, pierce their leaf tissue with syringelike mouths and drain the nitrogen-rich sap. They cluster on the undersides of their leaves. Pear-shaped aphids may be green, yellow or black. Winged, white or pale-yellow whiteflies swarm briefly from the trees when disturbed. Aphids attack throughout the trees’ four yearly growth flushes and decline when the new leaves mature. Whiteflies are busy in early spring, midsummer and early to midfall.

Honeydew and Sooty Mold

Sooty mold develops on satsumas when the aphids or whiteflies excrete honeydew, a transparent, sticky waste. Airborne sooty mold spores feed on the honeydew but don’t penetrate the leaves. The spores form colonies of black fungus, sometimes thick enough to block sunlight and interfere with photosynthesis. Even small amounts of sooty mold ruin a satsuma’s look. Removing the insects with oil spray additionally eradicates honeydew, and the sooty mold eventually starves.

Plant-Based Neem Oil

Organic, ready-to-use neem oil suffocates aphids and whiteflies. Because neem oil overspray can stain surrounding surfaces, cover the area around an indoor satsuma, or move the tree outside for therapy after watering it well. If you are spraying outside, take action on a peaceful day to reduce drift from hitting other plants. Shake the spray bottle frequently to maintain the oil frozen, and coat each side of the leaves till they drip.

Organic Horticultural Oil

A refined petroleum product, olive oil works like neem oil. Use it at the first sign of aphids or whiteflies. On a calm, dry day, when the temperature is below 90 degrees Fahrenheit and no rainfall is in the forecast, water your satsuma well and spray until all of its surfaces drip. Go an indoor tree outside for therapy. Keep people and pets away from the sprayed area while the oil dissolves, and repeat the program whenever more aphids or whiteflies arrive.

Take Precautions

Keep the oils out of your neighborhood water distribution by spraying your satsuma just when the weather is dry and there’s no chance that their runoff might reach drains or nearby water resources. The oils suffocate bees and other beneficial insects on contact, so examine your tree for good insects and delay spraying it they are present. To guard against potential eye, respiratory or skin irritation, dress at a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, waterproof gloves, socks, shoes, protective masks and a respiratory mask when spraying. Keep people and pets away from the sprayed area until the oil dries.

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How to: Faux Staircase Wainscoting

Wainscoting consists of panels that cover the lower part of a wallsocket. In a dining room, the wainscoting generally extends as large as the surface of the back of the chairs. It provides a wall and architectural detail and depth by providing a contrasting color over. But rather than spending a lot of money to put in wood panels, you can create faux wainscoting with 2- or boards, chair rail molding and 2 paint colors.

Assess the length of the wall in which you want to put in the artificial wainscoting. Divide the dimension by the panel widths that are desirable. For instance, in case you would like 2-foot panels and have a staircase with a wall, divide 10 by two to arrive at five panels. Ideally, you want the panels to have equivalent measurements for a balanced and cohesive look.

Measure from the top of every other stair tread the distance up the wall you desire the wainscoting to expand. Measure the wall up 30 inches on peak of every other stair if you want a top wainscoting and make a pencil mark.

Repeat this dimension from the very top of every additional tread 3 inches signaling this dimension with your pencil.

Lay the straightedge on the top marks to make a straight line between them. Because the ascends, the line ascends the wall in conjunction with the stairs up. After creating the line on the wall in which you intend to install the seat rail molding, then go back and confirm the dimension of the height of the railing to ensure that it is straight and equivalent. Repeat to the bottom measurements.

Extend the painter’s tape only. Confirm it is straight. Apply primer into the wall using the paint roller over the painter’s tape, but you intend to employ or the wall has never been painted; differently, skip the primer measure if the present paint is darker compared to the paint. Let it dry, following the manufacturer’s recommendations along with also the weather conditions at the time of painting.

Cover together with the contrasting paint color. For instance, you may opt to utilize a beige or brown over the seat railing, while painting the floor.

Locate the studs on the stairs wall with the stud finder and make a little”X” on each stud with the pencil just below the painter’s tape.

Cut on the seat rail molding to fit the length of the wall using the saw, making cuts on either end to accommodate the slant the wall up. Hold the chair rail molding on the wall with a bit hanging beyond the finish following the penciled line, Prior to trimming. On the back of the molding, then create a mark to following the line of the wall on the railing. This shows you that the cut needed on each end of the molding.

Remove the painter’s tape. Secure the seat rail molding into the wall at the locations atop the line made with the paint. Hammer in the finish nails, but leave a little bit extended to avoid damaging the seat rail. Set the nail head with the countersink punch and lightly tap it with the hammer to countersink the nail to the seat rail. Employ wood putty over the nail head to hide it. Smooth the putty throughout the hole, removing any excess. Let it thoroughly dry as recommended on the container. Lightly sand smooth when dry.

Follow the process in Step 8 to reduce the 3-inch-wide boards that sit beneath the seat railing and just over the surface of the staircase on the most important thing. Install the 3-inch-wide board beneath the seat railing in precisely the same manner as used in Step 8 and 9. Cut two end pieces of this 3-inch-wide plank to fit at the very top and bottom of the staircase to make the first panel that is large.

Measure and cut 2-inch boards that are human that you will install apart between the horizontal boards that are 3-inch, remembering to cut bottoms and the tops into the angle to fit the boards snugly between them. Nail the boards. Lightly cover the backs of these boards with caulk before repainting them into the wall if you have to install the vertical boards where there are no studs .

The paintable caulk all the inside edges of the boards together to create any openings between the wall and plank evaporate. Let it dry following the container recommendations.

Add painter’s tape on the stair treads to avoid getting paint on them and protect them.

Paint the entire area above the boards, each stair tread and the seat railing.

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