Dill Seed Vs. Dill Weed

Common dill (Anethum graveolens) has naturalized in North America after its introduction from the native southwestern Asia. Dill is easy to grow, giving textural visual interest to the garden with its 3- to 4-ft tall, feathery foliage and 6-inch broad umbrels of bright yellow blossoms. Dill foliage is food for black swallowtail caterpillars, so it is recommended as a host plant from blossom gardens. However, dill really shines from the kitchen. The sweetly pungent taste is concentrated in the leaves and the seeds, making dill a popular herb for a vast assortment of culinary uses. Dill weed is simply another name for dill foliage.


Dill prefers full sun in well-drained soil. It grows easily from seed from U. S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10. Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in loose soil in the first spring. Make successive sowings every two to three weeks for a continuous supply. Successive sowings permit you to allow the ancient plants mature so it’s possible to use the seeds when cucumbers are all set to pickle. Later plantings give you a source of fresh dill weed through the entire year. In desert regions, plant dill in late summer and early fall to avoid extreme heat. Water newly planted dill to aid germination, and irrigate sometimes throughout the entire year to maintain the dirt from completely drying out. As seedlings grow, thin them to stand about 18 inches apart. An easy method to grow dill is to let it reseed directly in the garden.


Young dill plants which you lean from the garden are ideal to thicken for tender, fresh dill weed. Although you can trim dill foliage at any opportunity to utilize new, the leaves have the best flavor before the umbrels blossom. Trimmed dill continues to grow new leaves until the plant flowers, so it is possible to replicate harvest the foliage. Harvest dill seeds from mature plants after the blossoms plant seeds. The blossom umbrels become clusters of seeds that pertain to the plant until they are fully mature. Snip off the seed heads once the seeds are brown and dry before the seeds scatter. Hold a tote or big bowl under the heads and snip — allow the seed heads fall into the container.


Wash fresh dill weed and wash it dry, chop it, then freeze it in tiny containers or suspend it flat on a baking sheet to move to small containers. To dry dill weed, loosely tie together a few branches at the base with rope or a rubber band and hang on the bundles upside-down in an airy place out of sunlight. Bruising the branches may cause stains of decay or mold, so handle the dill gently. You might also use an electric dehydrator to dry dill weed quickly. A dehydrator assists the dried leaves retain the bright green colour of fresh dill. Shake the dry dill seeds from the stalks into a bowl, sorting out the stalks for disposal. Store dried dill weed and dill seeds in airtight containers in the cabinet.


Is dill an herb or spice? It’s both. Herbs are leaves, so dill weed is an herb. Legendary as a flavoring for fish, dill weed is excellent in soups and stews, dips and sauces, also to taste vegetables, rice and omelets. Dill seeds are regarded as a spice because they are parts of the plant which are leaves. Use whole or ground seeds to taste dill pickles and to make flavored vinegar, and add them to sauerkraut, breads and rolls, cakes and cole slaw. Dill seeds include zip to roasted root veggies, and they include sweet pungency to curry powder. Dill weed also produces a lovely foliage replacement for ferns in flower arrangements. It adds odor as well as colour, and lasts several days in a vase of water.

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Chain Size of the John Deere CS56

The John Deere CS56 is a heavy duty series saw designed for farm and home use. It can be used for cutting firewood, removing or pruning tree limbs, and cutting down small trees. It’s equipped with a 0.325-inch pitch, 0.05-inch gauge series that is offered in three bar lengths: 16, 18, and 20 inches.

Definition of Measurements

To determine the pitch, or size, of the series, assess the space between three successive rivets on the chain and divide by 2. The gauge refers to the thickness of the drive connection where the chain fits into the groove on the guide bar. The bar, or cutting length, is the space from the front of the saw into the tip of the link at the end of the bar rounded off to the nearest inch.

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Most Energy Efficient Hot Tubs

The final thing you need to worry about when lounging in your spa is that the cost to run it. Most new hot tubs strive for energy efficiency, but maybe not all of hot tubs are constructed the same. When looking for the most energy efficient spa available on the current market, find out more about the materials and methods of construction. If you purchase a spa with two pumps instead of one, though it may cost more in the beginning, you are able to reap the benefits on its own energy usage over time.

Energy Efficient Components

The primary components of a hot tub that affect its energy efficiency begin with filtration, the pump valve and system, and end with construction, shell insulating material and whether the spa has a cover. Since warm tubs sit unused for the vast majority of the moment, the costs to keep up the heat, even if not in use, directly influences its energy efficiency. Start looking for hot tubs that satisfy the American National Standard for Residential Swimming Pools to guarantee energy efficient electrical parts in the spa. Hot tubs that use LED light and programmable controls cost less to operate.

Two Pumps Better Than 1

A spa that provides two pumps originally costs more to purchase, but costs less to operate than a spa with a two-speed pump. By using a low wattage pump only for water flow, and a separate pump for your jet system, an operator can lower the monthly costs of operation since the jet system simply works by turning it on to be used. A two-speed pump motor runs the energy bill up due to the higher electrical drain on pump. Additionally, start looking for a spa that delivers an economy mode setting for heating when not in use. Some spa systems also spend the pump heating exhaust and use it to heat the water and decrease energy consumption.

Insulation and Construction

Hot tubs constructed with conductive polyurethane foam keep the heat in the bathtub rather than let it escape. The identical foam used to insulate commercial freezers, this high-density foam affects the hot tub general energy efficiency. A fully insulated spa operates more effectively than one with insulation in only a couple of places. Hot tubs without full insulation and sealed covers permit energy to escape, which raises monthly operating costs, especially when installed in colder climates.

Other Ways to Conserve

Don’t overheat your own body, as a couple of degrees can make a major difference on your electric bill. A spa that has a cushioned heating thermostat allows you to place the warmth if you need it and also reduces energy intake if you do not. With the addition of a layer of floating insulating material beneath the water and beneath the cover reduces evaporation and retains the heat in the bathtub. Regularly clean or replace worn-out filters as dirty filters create pumps and heaters work more difficult. When you put in a spa outside of the Bay Area in California, such as in a region with extreme weather conditions, put the hot tub in a gazebo or outside construction to raise its efficiency.

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How to Clean a Wood Desk Using a Leatherette Top

The leather-top desk is a timeless style of writing desk. While antique versions of this design feature genuine leather, modern upgrades often make use of synthetic materials like leatherette or delicate vinyl instead. Leatherette is not as porous as actual leather, and is therefore easier to clean. A very simple detergent solution will work to clean both the wood and leatherette regions of the desk securely.

Dry clean each the desk’s surfaces using a vacuum cleaner, using a soft brush attachment so as not to scratch or scuff the wood or leatherette.

Prepare a solution of 1 tbsp household dish soap or liquid soap in 1 pint of warm water. Pour the solution into a handheld spray bottle and shake to mix.

Spray the cleaning solution on the leatherette and scrub gently with a soft brush to remove dirt and grime.

Wipe with a soft cloth to remove cleaning solution residue. Rinse leatherette surface using a clean dampened soft cloth.

If the wood component of this desk has any oil-based stains or grime, dampen a soft cloth with mineral spirits.

Spot-test a small amount of mineral spirits in an unnoticeable border of the wood. If it doesn’t cause a response, use the cloth to gently rub away oil-based stains. Be careful not to press too hard or allow the wood absorb too much of this mineral spirits.

Spray a fresh cloth with the detergent solution, and use it to clean out the remainder of the wooden surfaces, working on a small region at a time. Change fabrics as necessary.

Rinse with a fresh cloth dampened with water.

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The way to Give Paneling a Drywall Look

The effect of wood paneling on space air can be hard to ignore, and the dark wood tomes don’t fit with every design motif. In case a remodeling job has brought you to the stage of either removing the paneling or covering it with drywall, it may be relaxing to know that you don’t need to do. All you need to do in order to produce the paneling resemble drywall would be to skim-coat it using joint compound. While skim-coating can be tricky to do correctly, it is easier than the choices, and you don’t need to employ a professional to do it.

Inspect the paneling for loose borders or warping, and fasten loose sections securely to the studs using ring-shank nails. Sink all nail heads with a hammer and nail set.

Wash the paneling using a mix of 1/2 cup of trisodium phosphate detergent per gallon of warm water. This mixture not only cleans dirt and grease in the paneling, but it etches the end. Let the paneling dry, then scuff the surface together with 150-grit sandpaper to etch it even more.

Paint the paneling with a coat of interior latex or shellac-based wood tip. Apply the primer with a medium nap roller and paintbrush.

Tape the seams between panels using drywall tape in exactly the same manner you would tape routine seams seams. Spread a layer of joint compound along the flux using a 4-inch drywall knife, lay moistened drywall tape and scrape it flat with the knife. Immediately topcoat it with another layer of joint compound and scrape the chemical flat.

Let the taped seams dry, then topcoat with one or 2 more layers of joint compound. Scrape with a 6- to 8-inch blade, feathering the edges into the wall to make flat seams.

Skim-coat by spreading a thin layer of joint compound over the entire wall using an 8-inch drywall knife. Start in one of the best corners, applying hardened all-purpose joint compound on the wall using a paint roller or drywall knife and scraping the knife along the grain of the timber to flatten the mud. The layer shouldn’t be any thicker than about 1/8 inch.

Wait for the first skim coat to dry, then sand it with a pole sander and 120-grit sandpaper. Wipe off the sanding dust using a rag and, even if you can still see wood grain or tape seams, apply a second coat. Sand that coat when it dries and wipe off the sanding dust. Repeat a third time, if needed.

Apply a coat of PVA — or drywall — primer to the wall using a medium-nap roller and paintbrush. Let the primer dry, then paint the wall or hang wallpaper, as desirable.

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The way to Use Gel Stain on Unfinished Oak Furniture

Gel stain, an oil-based choice to fluid wood stain, contains enough urethane you don’t need to employ a top coat, though you can if you would like to have more protection and higher shine. Thicker than fluid stains, gel stains provide immediate gratification to those who prefer to utilize wipe-on colour on bare oak furniture. They are also less cluttered, since they don’t drip like fluid stains, plus they provide a more shade, since they don’t run.

Remove any drawers in the furniture and unscrew the knobs from the drawers. Set the knobs and screws aside.

Put on a dust mask and mud the oak furniture using 180-grit sandpaper, followed by 220-grit sandpaper to open the pores of the oak and allow it to take the gel stain evenly.

Blow the sawdust off using a hair dryer, vacuum cleaner or can of compressed air. Vacuum sawdust off the floor.

Apply a coat of wood conditioner to the full surface of the furniture using a white cotton fabric or foam brush. Allow it to dry for 15 minutes and apply another coat. Allow the second coat to dry for 2 hours.

Stir the gel stain thoroughly using a paint stirrer to mix.

Put on a set of rubber gloves and dip a cotton rag to the gel stain.

Wipe the stain over the surface of the furniture, working in the direction of the grain. If the stain is thicker than you want, wipe off the extra with another white cotton fabric.

Keep changing wiping cloths until all the excess stain has been absorbed, to prevent seeing streaks and darker regions. Use an old dry paintbrush to get excess stain out of crevices.

Allow the stain to dry for eight to ten hours. Apply two layers, letting the second to dry for eight to ten hours and the previous coat to dry overnight.

Sand the furniture quietly using 600-grit sandpaper or 0000 steel wool. Blow Off the sawdust as you did in Step 3.

Employ one more coat of gel stain if you would like the timber to be darker. Allow this coat to dry overnight.

Employ a polyurethane top coat using a sponge brush if desired to give the furniture more protection and shine. Allow the top coat to dry overnight before replacing the drawers and knobs and using the furniture.

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How to Wash Large Custom Curtains

Not only do dirty drapes detract from the beauty of a room, they also result in a potential increase in airborne allergens. If your windows are adorned with large customized drapes, you may be intimidated to attempt to wash them. If left untreated, however, curtain fabric can turn irreversibly dingy while also triggering asthma and allergies.

Ditch the Dirt

If you have ever opened your own drapes and discovered yourself consumed by a cloud of dust, then you know just how much debris a set of drapes can gather. The very first step in maintaining your large custom drapes clean is regular dusting or vacuuming. An assortment of cleaning implements — by a feather duster into a vacuum cleaner’s suction attachment — may also be used to remove dirt from drapes. Work from the top down so anything which falls can be cleaned later, and make sure you take care of either side. Check in the folds and hems where hidden debris accumulates and wipe down dusty windows and windowsills.

Steam It Out

While dusting ought to be carried out weekly, steam cleaning may be done on a less frequent schedule or as needed. Based on your budget, purchase an inexpensive handheld steam cleaner or even rent one. Before beginning the procedure, consult the manufacturer’s label to be sure that you wo not hurt the drapes with this method. Make sure you follow the manufacturer’s directions about the amount of water to add and heating time, as it fluctuates depending on unit. When the steam cleaner is ready to go, begin with the back of the curtain and then work from top to bottom, holding the steamer 2 to 3 inches in the fabric. When you finish the back side of the curtain, then repeat the procedure on the front. Following a 15-minute drying interval, you can determine whether you need another round of steaming or place cleaning.

Machine Clean

Even large customized drapes can fit inside super-sized washing machines, although you may need to wash them one or two at a time based on the capacity of the unit. Machine washing drapes is a snap but some techniques are more effective than others. Again, read the manufacturer’s label to make sure the drapes are machine washable. Always use the delicate cycle as fabric can deteriorate when exposed to sunlight. Cold water is ideal to minimize fading and shrinking, although heavily soiled fabrics may require a warm atmosphere. Look for a detergent formulated for maintaining color as sun-exposed fabrics especially are vulnerable to fading.

Clean and Quick

Most people underestimate the cumulative impact of the sun’s beams on fabric. Curtains are household workhorses and can have short life spans if not treated with adequate caution. Simply clean drapes when it is absolutely crucial. If dusting does not do the trick but a complete washing is not to be able, use a lint brush to slough away embedded dirt or execute a quick spot clean using a moist cloth. A tag which reads, “Dry Clean Only” needs to be honored. All dry cleaners aren’t created equally, though, so check to see if your neighborhood dry cleaner comes with expertise working with large customized drapes.

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Cellulose Insulation & Water Damage

Blow-in cellulose insulation is manufactured from recycled newspaper and treated with borate to leave it fireproof and insect-proof. It’s not watertight, but this’s usually not a problem unless the roof flows, a pipe bursts behind a wall or a levee is breached during flood season. Once cellulose insulation has been thoroughly soaked it becomes a problem in urgent need of a solution.

Cellulose Insulation and Moisture

Cellulose insulation is frequently installed damp, and its insulating properties have been undamaged by routine seasonal humidity. When cellulose insulation becomes inundated with water, nevertheless, it’s likely to sag and settle, leaving sections of the ceiling or wall cavity unevenly filled. Once that happens, the cellulose won’t function as an effective insulating substance.

Cellulose Insulation and Damage

Thanks to its borate therapy, mold won’t form on cellulose insulation. But mould will form on timber studs and drywall in contact with moist cellulose. That is why it’s urgent to eliminate water-soaked cellulose and replace it with new insulation.

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How to Sand & Stain a Dresser

Sanding and staining are significant steps in achieving a professional finish on a hardwood dresser. Sanding smooths the wood grain during the prep stage and removes dust throughout the finishing stage. The correct application of stain provides rich tones that improve the dresser’s natural beauty. While none of these tasks requires specific skills, they are time-consuming and require attention to detail for the ideal outcome. Remove all the old finish about an present dresser before beginning.

Prep Sanding

Remove dresser drawers and put each one on end, on a drop cloth, together with the drawer front facing upwards. In case the drawers came with installed pulls, remove them using a screwdriver. Put on goggles and a respirator mask before sanding.

Start sanding using 80-grit sandpaper or a sanding block, using smooth and even strokes and sanding in the exact same way as the wood grain. Unfinished dressers include presanded, but this is nevertheless an important measure to eliminate scratches or blemishes and to smooth wood grain which may have enlarged due to moisture. Run your fingers over the wood as you mud to make certain all roughness is eliminated.

Switch to your finer, 160-grit sandpaper or sanding block to provide a very smooth surface before applying stain. While there certainly are finer-grit sandpapers, 160-grit is adequate. Should you use a very fine grit, you risk polishing the wood surface, which can hinder stain absorption.

Applying Stain

Brush off sanding dust using a brush, or vacuum it away and crack a window before rinsing. Solvent fumes in wood stain can leave you feeling a little dizzy if you apply the stain in a closed room. Wear rubber gloves.

Brush on a thin but also coat of wood stain using a new paintbrush or utilize a stain applicator pad. The caveat when applying stain would be to function from the surface of the dresser down and also to restrict staining to a part at a time. For instance, do the dresser top first, then 1 side, then another side, then the front. Stain every single drawer face entirely.

Allow the wood stain soak in a few minutes or till the wood reaches the desired shade and then wipe it off completely using soft, absorbent rags. Pay special attention to details and crevices in the wood. If any stain remains on the wood, it can impact the dresser’s finish coat.

Final Sanding and Finishing

Allow the wood dry completely before lightly sanding with 220-grit sandpaper. Staining causes the wood fibers to swell slightly. Use a light touch to keep from sanding off any of this color.

Wipe down the dresser and drawer fronts with tack cloth before apply a light coat of wood finish and let it dry.

Sand the dresser involving every finish coat to eliminate pieces of dust which may adhere to the finish before it’s completely dry. Use 400-grit silicon carbide sandpaper and a very light touch. This is more of a polishing measure than anything else.

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Which type of Gladiolus to Plant With Tomato Plants?

Gladiolus (Gladiolus spp.) Grow from corms and will return every year under the ideal conditions. They prefer full sun, well-drained, rich soil and constant watering. Gladiolus are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, based on the particular variety. Tomatoes have similar growing conditions. Any type of gladiolus will grow with tomatoes.

Gladiolus Grandiflora Hybrids

Gladiolus hybrids grow from 4 to 6 ft high with flowers up to 5 inches over on tall stalks. Up to 40 flower buds are on each stem. Plant them in the back of the tomatoes so the tall sword-shaped leaves do not block the sun. The flowers come in every color. Some unusual colours include green, black and brown. The petals may be ruffled and you could also find double or semi-double flowers. A few varieties are streaked with a contrasting color or the petals are edged using a different color. The tall stems may need staking in windy places or where there’s heavy rainfall.

Butterfly Gladiolus

Shorter than grandiflora, butterfly gladiolus, the nana set of hybrids, grow from 2-3 feet tall having smaller flowers splashed with contrasting color. The flower spikes have around 12 buds and blossom in pink, pink, salmon and an almost red. These are the sole summer-blooming gladiolus that could be left in the ground in USDA zones 4 and over. The shorter varieties makes an intriguing border at the front of the bed or even perhaps clustered as focal points within the tomato plants.

Winter-Blooming Gladiolus

South Africa’s cape area has more than 100 different species of gladiolus, and these types do well in warm, frost-free spaces, such as Mediterranean-type climates. The flowers are not as showy as summer-blooming sorts and you might have to purchase these sorts from specialty retailers.


In warm-winter areas, such as USDA zones 8 through 10, the corms can stay in the ground all winter. Mark where you have implanted the gladiolus so you don’t accidentally dig up them when planting the strawberries. Plant the corms from 2 to 5 inches deep. Sandy soil requires deeper planting.

Kinds of Tomato Plant

Tomatoes are either indeterminate or determinate. Indeterminate keep creating and growing all season, with flowers, immature fruits and ripe fruits on the exact same plant in the exact same moment. They tend to become leggy as they keep growing. Determinate tomatoes stop growing and put their energy into ripening their harvest all over a week to ten days. Because determinate tomatoes are tidier, they’re a much better fit with gladiolus.

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