How to Design a Moss Dish Garden

Bringing moss into your home using a dish garden can add a gorgeous natural indoor feature. With minimal preparation and attention, your dish garden can thrive with lush greenery. Moss is a visually interesting plant that does not flower or have roots. In favorable conditions, it can form a mounding green mat. While homeowners can become frustrated by outside mosses competing with turf at the lawn, this hardy plant can be welcomed inside in a container because of the little maintenance needed.

Decide on a dish or terrarium of any size without drainage holes or using a saucer underneath. Put about three inches of potting soil in the dish.

Gather moss outside using a hand shovel to dig the plant up alongside a small quantity soil where it is growing or purchase moss from a nursery or online; collect enough moss to cover the whole soil surface of your dish garden. Search for various kinds of moss to enhance the visual appeal. Collect objects such as small stones, sticks, and small accent plants to have in your dish garden.

Spray the soil of the dish garden with water so it is thoroughly moist. If you’d like to get a mounded impact immediately, build up the soil in 1 place of the dish garden so it is slightly higher than the remainder of the garden.

Press down firmly on the soil throughout the dish garden, as moss grows on firm surfaces and this will prevent soil from washing out from under the moss.

Firmly press one section of moss into the soil at a time, piecing the borders of the sections together until the whole soil surface is covered. Incorporate any extra elements, such as rocks, sticks, or other plants, in the dish garden in this time.

Spray the top of the moss with water once it is all implanted and put your dish garden at the desired place; moss typically prefers shade.

Water your moss dish garden frequently for the first three weeks after it is implanted ensuring the plants don’t become dry.

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How to Prune White Meidiland Roses

White meidiland roses (Rosa “Meicoublan”) feature showy white double blooms in a prostrate form, growing just 1 to 2 feet tall with a spread of 4 to 6 feet. Grown in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, white meidiland roses work well in group plantings as groundcover where they can blossom from spring until frost. Unlike many upright rose cultivars with fussy pruning needs, white meidiland roses only need light to moderate pruning to shape the plant. The ideal time to prune is in late winter to early spring once the buds begin to swell.

Wash all of the tools with rubbing alcohol to avoid spreading disease among plants. Wipe the blades often while pruning, particularly after cutting a diseased branch. White meidiland roses have relatively thin stems, so bypass pruners are all you need to want to prune the plant.

Wash all dead foliage from around the plants so you can more easily observe the framework of the canes. Discard the leaves instead of composting to stop from spreading foliar diseases.

Cut any dead canes back to the healthy, green portion of the stem; dead canes are generally brown or black. Cut at an angle just above a healthier outward-facing bud. If the whole cane is lifeless, then cut the cane back to the ground or at the graft union.

Eliminate as much as one-third of the old canes to make room for fresh canes. Cut these back into the ground.

Eliminate any rubbing or crossing branches, especially toward the center of the plant. Instead of removing the whole cane, cut branches back to the junction with the parent cane or just above a healthy, outward-facing bud to support the plant to branch away from the plant facility.

Trim additional canes and divisions as required to form the plant. When possible, always cut back the canes above an outward-facing bud and remove the buds that face the interior of the plant. Aim to keep the plant open and encourage it to continue spreading from the center, instead of allowing it to develop into a tangled mess at the center with sparse growth on the outside.

Eliminate the spent blossoms during the flowering period in order that your plant continues to make fresh flowers into fall. Cut the stem at an angle just above a five-leaf set.

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The way to Grow Pumpkins in a Mold to Create Faces

Pumpkins (*Cucurbita pepo*) create a colorful addition to your lawn. This annual crop comes in a variety of shades and sizes and fits in well in the event that you have the space. Many people split their initials into jack-o-lanterns from the fall, but it is possible to present your pumpkin a face without ever picking up a knife. Instead, use a mould to form the pumpkin as it rises to get something decorative and unusual.

Start Your Own Pumpkins

Pumpkins are a warm-season crop that grows in a lot of the USA. They should be planted after all danger of frost has passed. If you would like them for Halloween, the University of Illinois Extension recommends planting pumpkins in late May for northern climates through early July for warmer, southern areas. It gives them time to develop without maturing so early they turn to mush before Halloween. Plant four to five seeds per hill, spaced 5 to 6 feet apart for the vining classes and 4 feet apart for bush varieties.

Find a Mold

To present your pumpkin a face, you’ll need to find a mould you want. Suitable molds are offered from various nurseries, specialty shops and online sources. They are generally made from aluminum or plastic and are reusable. If you are handy you can also create your own of timber, hammered metal or any other good material. The material has to be tough enough to include the growing pumpkin or the face shape won’t take.

Place the Mold

Pumpkins must be put into molds while they are still young. Should you wait too long they wo not take the form of the mould well and they may crack. The pumpkin must fit in the mould and be small enough it can be held in place by the mold’s backing, straps or other devices. You can use tape to maintain your pumpkin from the face mould, but do not really tape the fruit.

Remove the Mold

Remove the face mould in the pumpkin when the fruit has grown big enough to completely fill the mould. Now the design is put along with the pumpkin will keep the face shape the remainder of its existence. Continue to look after the pumpkin as ordinary. Provide water through prolonged dry spells and hoe around your plants to help keep the weeds down. Harvest your pumpkin when it is mature and fully ripe, usually in late September or the first part of October. Cut it in the plant, leaving 3 to 4 inches of stem attached, and store it in a cool, dry location.

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What Is Wrong with My Ficus Tree if the Leaves Are Turning Light Green?

Commonly grown ficus trees (Ficus spp.) Contain the rubber tree (Ficus elastica) along with the weeping fig (Ficus benjamina). Both of these are hardy outdoors all year in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12 and develop as houseplants in any USDA zone. The weeping fig has its name from its pendulous branches and certainly will become 40 to 50 feet tall outdoors but generally no more than 10 feet tall when grown indoors in a pot. The rubber tree has tough and sturdy, dark-green leaves which rarely change shade, however, the weeping fig sometimes signals a problem when its leaves turn light green, but in some situations the color change is not a cause for concern.

A Normal Response

If only young leaves to a contaminated fig are light green, old leaves are darker and the tree is healthy, then the tree probably does not have a difficulty. Leaves contain the green pigment chlorophyll, which youthful leaves actively produce. So new leaves can appear lighter than adult leaves because they haven’t yet produced a full quantity of pigment; the newest leaves must gradually darken withing one or two weeks. Leaves of a indoor weeping fig can turn light green when the tree was recently moved from a bright location to a less brightly lit place or when the plant is a newly purchased greenhouse-grown tree accustomed to brighter light. Leaf colour change in this kind of weeping fig is not a problem, provided no leaves turn yellow or drop in the tree. Nevertheless, you may set up an artificial light source, such as a rise light or full-spectrum fluorescent bulb, several feet from an indoor weeping fig to assist its leaves darken.

Too Much Water

If leaves of different sizes and ages begin to turn light green to a weeping fig, the switch could indicate overwatering, particularly if light-green leaves eventually turn yellow and drop. As opposed to following a predetermined watering schedule, analyze your weeping fig’s soil before watering it to ascertain whether the tree needs water. Check the top 2-3 inches of a weeping fig’s soil on a regular basis, whether the tree grows outdoors in the ground or in a container inside or outdoors, and water the soil only when it feels dry to your fingertip. Water thoroughly, allowing the water to drain in the bottom drainage holes of a potted tree’s container, but never leave the container in a water-filled saucer. If a weeping fig is planted in the ground, use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to water its dirt, allowing the water penetrate the ground gently but deeply.

Poor Nutrition

Weeping fig needs fertilizer about each month throughout the growing season — normally spring through the summer, and its leaves might begin to turn light green if the soil’s nutrient levels become low. If the weeping fig is planted in the ground, then scrape a granular fertilizer using a nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium ratio of 3-1-2 into the top few inches of its soil, applying it in a speed of about 1/3 pound per 100 square feet of soil surface area below the tree’s canopy, and also water the fertilized ground well. If you have a container-grown weeping fig, utilize a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 formula, diluted to one-half strength. Achieving a one-half strength dilution typically requires mixing 1/4 teaspoon of this fertilizer with 2 gallons of water, but follow your fertilizer’s label directions. A weeping fig should not be fertilized during autumn or winter so it can break.

Potential Pests

Weeping fig is vulnerable to a number of insects which suck plant juices and might cause leaves to turn light green or even to turn yellow, curl and eventually fall. Those insects comprise scale insects, which appear like raised brown spots on stems and leaves, and are best destroyed by touching every one using a cotton swab which was dipped in rubbing alcohol. Spray a huge tree once every month using an all-season olive oil which was diluted in water; the dilution rate is generally 2 1/2 tablespoons of this horticultural oil per 1 gallon of water, but check the product’s label for specific directions. Other pests that affect weeping fig are aphids, which can be miniature, greenish-yellow insects which leave behind a sticky residue, and spider mites, which can be microscopic and make weblike coverings on young leaves and branch tips. Rid the tree of those pests by spraying it until it’s dripping wet with insecticidal soap which was diluted at a speed of 5 tablespoons per 1 gallon of water; spray the tree every 2 weeks if needed to eliminate the insects.

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When to Harvest Red Torpedo Onions

When you desire a mild and sweet-flavored onion, the red torpedo onion (Allium cepa var. Cepa “Red Torpedo”) is 1 type you’ll want to consider. At maturity, red the heirloom torpedo onion, which originated from the Italian region of Calabria, measures 6 to 8 inches long with a diameter of approximately 3 inches. They are named using a torpedo shape and red to purple skin. Red torpedo onions grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 to 10.

Life Cycle of Red Torpedos

Red torpedo onions are a type of long day onion. The bulbs on this form of onion form when the plants receive 14 or more hours of sunlight every day. Typically, you plant red torpedo seeds or places in the spring and then harvest them around six months later. They are classified as biennials but are generally raised as annuals. Sometimes, red torpedo onions are harvested at scallion size. You may pull on the onion plants when they are 6 to 8 inches tall and the diameter of a pencil. But wait to harvest the fully formed bulbs to take advantage of the light, sweet onion flavor.

How to Harvest

When the torpedo-shaped onions rise slightly out of the ground, then they are ready to harvest. If you are not sure, pull a few onions and then check their size. The tall leaves generally begin to turn from green to yellow and fall over when the onions reach a harvestable size. When approximately one-half of those tops fall over, thrust the other tops above by hand and then wait a week. After a week, the tops will turn brown and wither. Loosen the soil around the onion lamps using a garden fork and then pull on the onions. Allow the onions to air-dry from the garden for a single day. If the weather is very hot and sunny, dry the onions from the shade. If blossom stalks have formed, then utilize the onions instantly and do not store them.

Prepare Onions for Storage

After drying in the garden for a day, transfer the onions to a dry shelter. Expand the onions in a single layer on elevated screens or pliers or hang the onions in tiny bunches. Provide decent air circulation and allow the onions to dry for two to three weeks. Braid the tops cut the tops off 1 inch in the onion bulb. Trim off any tiny roots.

Storage of Red Torpedos

Red torpedo onions are generally bad onions for long-term storage. However, they will keep up to 3 months in storage if you prepare yourself and store them carefully. Select onions using a dry outer skin and tight neck for storage. Hang the braided onions, then place them in mesh bags or keep them on the screens or slats. Store the onions over 32 degrees and below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Above 40 degrees F, they will sprout. Don’t store onions in the fridge. Avoid storing onions, since the potatoes will release a ripening gas that may cause the onions to become fragile.

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Could I Use Miracle-Gro LiquaFeed Plant Food on Grass?

A yard requires a bit tending to keep it lush and green. Supplying the grass with nutrients by fertilizing it will help to keep the lawn healthy and vigorous. You can kill two birds with one stone by fertilizing your lawn with Miracle-Gro LiquaFeed fertilizer when you water it.

Grass Fertilizer Needs

Grass needs varied nutrients, based on factors like the kind of turf grass, the era of a yard and the sort of soil. Without a soil test to determine the specific requirements your bud needs, the University of Florida IFAS Extension recommends having a fertilizer with a grade of 3-1-2 or 4-1-2. The 3-1-2 grade translates into a ratio of 12-4-8, which is the formula of Miracle-Gro LiquaFeed. These numbers signify nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, which are main nutrients. Miracle-Gro LiquaFeed also supplies manganese and zinc — two micronutrients that keep grass healthy and green.

When to Fertilize

Warm-season grasses, such as bermudagrass (Cynodon dactylon) in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 7 through 10 and zoysiagrass (Zoysia spp.) At USDA zones 5 through 10, require fertilizing only as soon as they begin to green up in the spring. Cool-season grasses, such as tall fescue (Festuca arundinacea) in USDA zones 4 through 7 and perennial ryegrass (Lolium perenne) in USDA zones 3 through 6 do not have to be fertilized during the warmer months. Begin fertilizing in the autumn, particularly in September.

The Way To Use

To provide 1 pound of nitrogen for each 1,000 square feet of grass, which is the recommended rate of nitrogen for a lawn, you must do some math to compute this rate if you use a granulated fluid. But if you utilize Miracle-Gro LiquaFeed, the calculations are already done for you. Every single LiquaFeed feeder bottle fertilizes 400 square feet of yard and can be implemented in 15 minutes. The suggested reapplication speed is every seven to 14 days.

How to Apply LiquaFeed

The Miracle-Gro LiquaFeed feeder attaches to the end of a garden hose and also holds the LiquaFeed refill bottle. After removing the cap to the LiquaFeed filter bottle, attach it to the LiquaFeed feeder by twisting it set up. Turn on the water and spray on the yard to fertilize it — the fertilizer will mix in the perfect proportion with the water. In case you have a small patch of yard to fertilize, you may apply it into your yard with a watering can. Utilizing the supplied dosing spoon, squeeze the refill bottle to fill the spoon. The dimension to the line is for mixing in 2 gallons of water, and the lower-line measurement unites in 1 gallon of water. Each gallon fertilizes a 10-square-foot location.

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Building a Ground Level Deck Using Treated Lumber Beams

Ground-level decking doesn’t signify that the surface of the deck is flush with the ground. Ground-level decking essentially suggests that it requires just a comfortable step up. Ground-level decks function well for entertaining, and add a certain charm to your garden or yard.

Stake the Footprint

Begin by tapping bets to the ground in all four corners, the stakes represent the holes for the footings. One important step that is sometimes missed: squaring the footprint. Perfectly square or rectangular shapes are essential for efficiency when decking planks are additional. It means the ends of the planks will be, as well as the gaps between planks will be equal. Square the footprint by measuring diagonally from corner to corner across the bets. This process works for square or rectangular decks. If the dimensions are not precisely the exact same for the two dimensions, adjust the bets until the measurement from one diagonal corner matches the measurement for another corner. Insert additional bets — using the string to align them concentrated between the corners if the footprint is more than 72 inches long. If the deck is more than 16 feet, plan on putting a wager based at 16 feet, to ensure that two beams buttocks together over one footing.

Concrete Footings

Dig the holes for concrete footings indicated from the bets. The holes must be approximately 8 inches wide and 12 inches deep. Home supply stores carry pre-mixed concrete. Figure on using one, 50-pound bag for each hole. Mix the concrete using water at a wheelbarrow using a shovel, until the concrete keeps a consistency of thick, pourable mud. Pour the concrete into the holes, flushing the concrete using the ground. For a bit more height on the footings, build a few little plywood forms to raise the footings a few inches or use pre-made tube forms. Insert article anchors to the concrete while it’s still wet. Post anchors are bolts using 3-by-3 metallic sleeves, or open-ended boxes connected to the top. The horizontal support beams match in the boxes. Push the bolt to the concrete to flush the base of the metallic sleeve using the concrete. Expand the article anchors using a very long, straight board. Measure diagonally across the masonry to guarantee everything is square. Allow 72 hours for the concrete to cure.

Horizontal Frame

Double-up two pressure-treated 2-by-6 beams for the flat supports. You do not need to use pressure-treated timber, however, the extra longevity is well worth it. The combined width of the flat beam is 3-inches, because 2-by-6 beams are just 1 1/2 inches in width. It’s a great idea to work with a half-lap joint on the corners. Essentially, allow a stair step effect on the ends of this doubled-up beams; among the measures overlap the step on the adjoining corner. Screw the flat frame with 3-inch screws. It’s possible to work with nails, but screws tighten better, and so are more inclined to stay put than screws. Screw 90-degree angle brackets — metal corners bent at 90 degrees — into the inside corners.

Metal Hangers

Joist support depends upon formulas which take into account kind of timber, spacing and intended usage of this deck. Check with a specialist if you have any questions regarding your design. In most cases 12-inch spacing is much more than adequate for joists up to 16-foot in length, nor need additional footings. Measure and divide the frame to 12-inch increments on the inside, switching between the two upper sides. Screw joist hangers into the inside of the frame on both the sides centered on the dimensions. Joist hangers are metal brackets or boxes. The ends of the flat 2-by-6 joists fit to the boxes on both sides. Measure and trim pressure-treated joists and insert them inside the boxes. Insert additional screws to the boxes, then securing the joists. Added strength an be added with optional screws through the flat frame, entering the ends of the joists.

Decking Choices

Several options for decking comprise 2-by-4s made from fir, weather-resistant lumber like redwood, composite decking or 5/4-by-6 standard treated decking boards. Fir is a strong, resilient and reasonably priced. It’s likely that the joists are also fir. Pine or cedar are other options for decking, but lack the power of fir. Utilize redwood is for a high-end appearance. It’s more expensive than fir but it’s durable and insect-resistant. Composite decking is artificial timber, produced from wood byproducts. It’s the maintenance-free of this other decking materials. Depending on quality, the price of composite decking may competitor redwood, however when calculating the price of maintaining real wood through the years, composites can actually save money in the long run. The best choice overall, since the deck is low to the bottom — might function as standard, 5/4-by-6 treated decking boards. Depending on where you buy them, these often have a lifetime limited warranty. Screw the decking to the frame using two, 3-inch screws for each piece at each joist. Drive the screws in tight enough to soften the head of the screwthread.

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DIY Country-Western Bedrooms

If you are feeling a slick, minimalist bedroom for less than comfy or smothered by an excess of Victorian ruffles and knickknacks, it is time to break loose and head for the Old West’s open spaces. Saddle up and channel your inner cowboy to give your bedrooms design which range from rustic bunkhouse decor to amorous prairie design.

Ride ‘Em Cowboy

Bring some luck mounted over the door on the wall. Hang it with the part facing the floor for assumed luck. Display a saddle on the wall or put a on a sawhorse. Locate horse-related items in flea markets and antique stores as well as estate sales, especially those on farms or ranches. For a accent, wallpaper over the bed with newspaper with a cowboy theme or horses.

Bunkhouse Chic

When tossed atop a graceful antique dresser, A well-worn cowboy hat adds a rustic touch. A simple wool blanket tossed along with a bed adds a cozy touch. Upholstering a club chair in flannel fabric like that found in a bedroll that is vintage brings the eye. Decide on a pattern with a western theme.

Old West Meets Southwest

Southwest style introduces American Indian and Mexican-inspired influences. Hang a woven Navaho blanket on the wall as a focus. For a more easily available and cheaper option, substitute a quilt using an Indian layout or mix a sheet with the effect and then mount it. Insert a lariat and wide-brimmed hat with a high crown like these Mexican cowboys wore. A chair upholstered in cloth or faux cowhide using a pattern creates an inviting place for meditating or studying.

Romancing the Prairie

Insert touches to style. A sparkling chandelier softens a skull exhibited over the dresser. A burlap pillow with a cowboy theme complements lacy throw cushions. A pair of boots lined with plastic and used as planters add a whimsical touch.

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Directions on John Deere Lawn Tractors for Belt Replacement

When the mower drive belt slide in your own John Deere lawn tractor starts to squeal or snaps completely, you know that it’s time to replace it. It’s a good idea to keep a replacement so the belt can change immediately and return to mowing since rubber straps are one of the first things to go on compressors. It’s a project most homeowners can accomplish with ease although the idea of changing the belt might appear overwhelming at first.

Park the tractor on a flat area and set the parking brake. Disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug. Remove in the ignition.

Put a wood block beneath the left and right side of the mower deck in preparation for deck removal. Adjust the deck height lever. By removing the hooks and washers linkages are lifted by disconnect the deck. Eliminate the linkages in the deck and disconnect the rear draft arm. Disconnect the mower deck drive belt to fully separate the deck from the tractor. Gently remove and allow the deck wheels to touch the floor. Roll the deck from underneath the mower and store it aside.

Pull the belt and remove the screws which hold the two belt covers in place covers from the deck. Loosen the sheaves and pull on the belt in the mower.

Route the belt around the sheaves and pulleys, following exactly the same path as the belt which you removed. The belt covers and screw them into position. Retighten the sheaves together with the belt in position. John Deere recommends tightening the sheaves.

Place the deck height lever in the transport position to start reattaching the mower deck. Roll the deck under the machine. Place the cubes underneath the deck on the left and side side and lower the deck height lever. Reinstall the pins and washers you removed before to reattach the linkage. Reattach the rear draft arm.

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