Bath exhaust fans vent to the exterior of the building to get rid of excessive heat and moisture from your restroom through showers and hot tubs. A number of these exhaust fixtures incorporate a light kit which could be operated in the identical light switch or separate wall switches. Replacing an existing bathroom lighting with a light and fan kit to be controlled by separate switches would necessitate running new wiring to the switch box, however a port and light kit operating off the same single switch won’t require extra wiring or a change of the switch.
Switch off the circuit breaker that controls the power to the light switch in the restroom. Then loosen the mounting screws and remove the switch plate with a screwdriver. Position the suggestion of a non-contact electrical tester against the wires on the side of the switch. If the lighting on the tester comes on, turn off other breakers or the main breaker to the home until the lighting no further illuminates when testing the wires. Replace the switch cap.
Rank a stepladder beneath the present lighting fixture. Climb the ladder and get rid of the planet and light bulbs in the fixture. Then loosen the mounting screws and disconnect the fixture in the wiring in the junction box.
Loosen the wire clamp inside the junction box, and take out the junction box in the hole in the ceiling. Push the wiring through the hole and to the attic space above.
Remove the plastic grille in addition to the light and fan assembly in the fan housing. Then access the attic over the restroom and find the hole in the ceiling vacated from the junction box. Position the fan housing over the junction box hole between the ceiling joists and mark the outline of the housing onto the drywall with a pencil. Cut out the hole along the pencil lines with a keyhole saw. Position the fan housing so that the bottom border of the housing is flush with the bottom of the drywall, and attach the braces to the corresponding ceiling joists with 1 1/2-inch wood screws using a power drill. Slip the electrical wiring you removed from the lighting fixture through the hole in the access panel of the fan housing.
Find the nearest exterior wall where you would like the wall cap to be mounted for the port. Drill a pilot hole in the middle of the desired place with a 1/4-inch drill bit.
Move outside and position a extension ladder so that it is possible to get the 1/4-inch pilot hole against the side of the home. Put in a 4-inch hole saw to your power drill, and drill a 4-inch hole during the siding and sheathing.
Apply a bead of exterior caulk around the mounting flange of a 4-inch wall cap, then insert the wall cap’s duct to the hole in the wall, and mount the cap to the wall using 1 1/2-inch stainless steel screws.
Return to the attic and also connect a part of 4-inch flexible duct between the duct to the inside of the port cap along with the duct on the exhaust fan. Secure the joints with duct tape.
Return to the bathroom and also tighten the wiring clamp around the electric wires from inside the access panel of the fan housing. Connect the black wire from the electric switch to the black wire in the access panel with a wire nut, then link the wires in similar fashion. Wrap the end of the bare wire around the green grounding screw in the housing and tighten the screw with a screwdriver. Slide the wires to the access panel, and place the panel cover over the panel.
Slip the fan and lighting assembly to the housing, and link the electric plug to the socket to the access panel. Then tighten the mounting screws to fasten the fan and lighting to the housing.
Install one of the light lights in the preceding fixture to the lighting fixture of the fan. Rank the plastic grill over the housing and sprinkle the mounting wires into their slots before pushing the grill against the housing.
Turn the circuit breaker and test the operation of the fan and lighting.